Please critique my home front-end alignment method

If camber is equal and it pulls left, either reduce pass caster, or increase driver caster, (or a little of both) till no pull with camber equal .

You'd know by how hard/fast it returns to center .

Just trackside stuff .

You can also swap the two front tires to narrow down a radial tire pull. If you drive it after your alignment and it does not pull and it feels stable and doesn't wander, I would call it good. There's really no need to measure caster in that instance, other than just to know where it is. If it drives good, you did good. I measure static caster at the spindle. It works for me.
Thanks guys, this is all good info to have. It looks like I'll proceed as I have been, knowing I may have to do some tweaking once I can drive the car. When I swapped the somewhat worn factory suspension from the donor car years ago, I set the back cams all the way in and the fronts all the way out, set the camber with a framing square and strung the car for toe. I then did as you're saying and drove the car and made a few tweaks until it had no pull. My wife, who's used to driving later model cars, was surprised how well the car tracked and rode. Hopefully I'll have just as good of luck this time around.