1965 MMP's Barracuda Hemi swap! The Ever Changing Build
Okay big update for me.
Got everything wired with the exception of the center console. No biggie...
Ran a full systems check and had no issues.
Cycled the system a few times with the same results
With this I am confident enough to close up the dash today. This is huge for me and surprisingly I enjoyed it.
I have to run a few grounding straps for the motor and I want to ad one for the diff just in case. I will be posting a few pictures later.
I found a super easy fix for the efi to key start fix by using a painless diode you can get at summit #80111 that fits our ignition switch perfectly.
It requires you remove the harness plug housing at the switch and plugging them in individual. The
Diode plugs in first at spot A to spot I-S or black wire to brown. You'll want the current to run from brown back to black. Then you'll use 2 female piggy back connector and run the two efi wires needed to black wire position is (run) and brown is (start) next you plug the brown and black wire back into there respective locations and your good to go. You'll now have positive (run) and (run/start) position. This can be used with any efi unit that requires a positive (run/start)
This is the diode I used and it just plugged right in with out issue.
Painless Performance 80111 Painless Performance Replacement Diode Assemblies | Summit Racing
Red= pos constant
Black n (2) blues= Run
Yellow n Brown= Start
Female piggy back connector i used.
This is how my setup with diode add ended up.
Yes my PCM controls the starter relay. No it will not remove the need for the diode. the 65 has a 5 plug starter switch. The red wire is constant +pos power to the switch. When switching to (Acc or Run) power is Only sent to the Black/ Blue wire. When switching to (start) position power is Only supplied to the brown and yellow wires. Without a diode one circuit would not be supplied power while the other is keyed. And the idea of needing a starter switch while still using a key and key switch is just out of the question for me.
Okay big update for me.
Got everything wired with the exception of the center console. No biggie...
Ran a full systems check and had no issues.
Cycled the system a few times with the same results
With this I am confident enough to close up the dash today. This is huge for me and surprisingly I enjoyed it.
I have to run a few grounding straps for the motor and I want to ad one for the diff just in case. I will be posting a few pictures later.
I found a super easy fix for the efi to key start fix by using a painless diode you can get at summit #80111 that fits our ignition switch perfectly.
It requires you remove the harness plug housing at the switch and plugging them in individual. The
Diode plugs in first at spot A to spot I-S or black wire to brown. You'll want the current to run from brown back to black. Then you'll use 2 female piggy back connector and run the two efi wires needed to black wire position is (run) and brown is (start) next you plug the brown and black wire back into there respective locations and your good to go. You'll now have positive (run) and (run/start) position. This can be used with any efi unit that requires a positive (run/start)
This is the diode I used and it just plugged right in with out issue.
Painless Performance 80111 Painless Performance Replacement Diode Assemblies | Summit Racing
Red= pos constant
Black n (2) blues= Run
Yellow n Brown= Start
Female piggy back connector i used.
This is how my setup with diode add ended up.
Yes my PCM controls the starter relay. No it will not remove the need for the diode. the 65 has a 5 plug starter switch. The red wire is constant +pos power to the switch. When switching to (Acc or Run) power is Only sent to the Black/ Blue wire. When switching to (start) position power is Only supplied to the brown and yellow wires. Without a diode one circuit would not be supplied power while the other is keyed. And the idea of needing a starter switch while still using a key and key switch is just out of the question for me.
