Eddy 1405 tuning advice

If the rods/pistons stay down at idle, they will stay down at cruise speed because the vacuum is higher.

This will be my last post on this thread because I see my advice [ posts 26 & 43 ] of 40+ yrs years on these carbs is being ignored.

For the umpteenth time, do the idle screw test in post #43 because you may well be still on the idle cct at cruise & THE MET RODS/ MAIN JETS WILL HAVE NO AFFECT IF THIS IS THE CASE, SO CHANGING THEM DOES NOTHING. And it needs more idle timing.

Here is my last piece of help:

T slot is checked from under the blades. Carb would normally have to be removed each time to check this. A pain in the a**. To check without removing the carb....with carb on the bench, set t slot to 0.040" [ ideal/perfect ] with speed screw. Using vernier calipers, measure from screw boss to head of screw & record it. Now open blades for a 0.060" gap. Measure again & record. With carb on the car, you can check your gap. More than 060 would require bypass air [ only after correct idle timing is established ]. Less than 040 is OK & no corrective action is needed. Your surging problems are quite likely T slot related. I would also set the valve lash to 0.030" which will improve idle vac.
Metering rods are supposed to be down/lean in cruise and idle, sir. That's when vacuum is highest. When vacuum drops, the springs overcome the low vacuum and push the rods UP into the small (rich) part of the rods enriching the mixture for acceleration, similar to a power valve. But at a steady cruise while NOT under load, the rods are in the down (lean) position since vacuum is high. Sorry your gettin your panties in a wad, but thats how these carburetors work. He has the springs what I would call just about right.