1967 cuda 273-440 swap details.
I did the swap in my 71 Duster, so same K member as you. Junkyardhero list is excellent.
Schumacher mounts. I would avoid the transdap, lazy copy, they did not even machine the drivers side biscuit. Only reason I used it is because the Schumacher company had not been saved yet when I bought my stuff. Schumacher are such amazing stand up people he sent me HIS instruction sheet for the COPY product! Amazing people.
I installed my engine twice, first stabbed both together, and could never get it right in the center. Engine had a noise so pulled just engine and re installed. Went in perfectly. The biscuits are sideways on a big block swap and acted like sliders which allowed perfect placement and a slam 'er in approach. I did not need to use the shims at all.
Schumacher Tri Y headers. TTI are a better option, Pro Parts are too if all out performance is the goal. Not a fan of the TTI and how tight it all sounds, and pro parts means cutting stuff up. Schumacher are easy to install, very easy to change plugs in car, etc.
Big block trans, ran it last summer with 727, in process of A833 swap. Going with hydraulic to avoid clearance issues etc. Swapping from auto to 4 speed is the identical process whether running small block or big block, with the exception of what bell you need
Allstar big block mopar rad, but GM style crossflow with mopar inlet/outlet. Keeps it very cool and easy install
Torque strap. Needed in my opinion.... heres why;
Cutting the K frame. You have to cut a relief area near the drivers side motor mount pad on the K member to clear the oil pump. Engine will not install without doing that. Another reason to go with Schumacher as they have that in their instructions, transdap does not. The area is pretty thin and most likely weak, so a torque strap is cheap insurance and it looks cool
Brakes. Bought the booster/master combo from right stuff, easily clears the 440 and now I have excellent power brakes. Pic below
Heater motor. Some guys have found a way to use a shorter motor, I just bought the plate from mancini to block it off as my entire unit was not in the car anyway.
That is my swap in a nutshell. I took forever doing mine as I was learning and collecting parts, but it is rather easy to do even by yourself. I had the engine out in less than two hours on my own, and similar time getting it back in and running after I fixed it
anyway, here is the brake system I used
I did the swap in my 71 Duster, so same K member as you. Junkyardhero list is excellent.
Schumacher mounts. I would avoid the transdap, lazy copy, they did not even machine the drivers side biscuit. Only reason I used it is because the Schumacher company had not been saved yet when I bought my stuff. Schumacher are such amazing stand up people he sent me HIS instruction sheet for the COPY product! Amazing people.
I installed my engine twice, first stabbed both together, and could never get it right in the center. Engine had a noise so pulled just engine and re installed. Went in perfectly. The biscuits are sideways on a big block swap and acted like sliders which allowed perfect placement and a slam 'er in approach. I did not need to use the shims at all.
Schumacher Tri Y headers. TTI are a better option, Pro Parts are too if all out performance is the goal. Not a fan of the TTI and how tight it all sounds, and pro parts means cutting stuff up. Schumacher are easy to install, very easy to change plugs in car, etc.
Big block trans, ran it last summer with 727, in process of A833 swap. Going with hydraulic to avoid clearance issues etc. Swapping from auto to 4 speed is the identical process whether running small block or big block, with the exception of what bell you need
Allstar big block mopar rad, but GM style crossflow with mopar inlet/outlet. Keeps it very cool and easy install
Torque strap. Needed in my opinion.... heres why;
Cutting the K frame. You have to cut a relief area near the drivers side motor mount pad on the K member to clear the oil pump. Engine will not install without doing that. Another reason to go with Schumacher as they have that in their instructions, transdap does not. The area is pretty thin and most likely weak, so a torque strap is cheap insurance and it looks cool
Brakes. Bought the booster/master combo from right stuff, easily clears the 440 and now I have excellent power brakes. Pic below
Heater motor. Some guys have found a way to use a shorter motor, I just bought the plate from mancini to block it off as my entire unit was not in the car anyway.
That is my swap in a nutshell. I took forever doing mine as I was learning and collecting parts, but it is rather easy to do even by yourself. I had the engine out in less than two hours on my own, and similar time getting it back in and running after I fixed it
anyway, here is the brake system I used
