Bypass ampmeter through bulkhead
Looking at your PDF.
That arrangement does work better in terms of fusible links each protecting just one path.
However it makes the power from the alternator go through two fusible links, then back through terminal P. Yes if P has enough resistance current will flow through the parallel wiring even though its longer. So the load will split when the resistance in both paths is close to equal.
It's all tradeoffs.
Here's what the factory did for A-bodies in '73
You could leave the standard alternator output wire to P, and then instead of an 8 gage wire use a 10 or 12 through the grommet.
The factory probably used 8 ga because of the heated back glass option. And I *think* '73 has the molded insulation on the R6 wire connection at the alternator ring terminal. If so, then it was easier to cut it out than leave it in when installing the option wiring on the prodution line.
Here's pictures of a '73
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopa...-electric-rear-defrost.452729/post-1972817767
and a '74. Grommet in same location.
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dash-power-feed-confusion.469868/post-1973079675
One thing Redfish has said to watch for in early '70s cars is water leaks. He's observed that was somewhat common on those cars and caused electrical problems in the instrument area including the ammeter connections.
Looking at your PDF.
That arrangement does work better in terms of fusible links each protecting just one path.
However it makes the power from the alternator go through two fusible links, then back through terminal P. Yes if P has enough resistance current will flow through the parallel wiring even though its longer. So the load will split when the resistance in both paths is close to equal.
It's all tradeoffs.
Here's what the factory did for A-bodies in '73
You could leave the standard alternator output wire to P, and then instead of an 8 gage wire use a 10 or 12 through the grommet.
The factory probably used 8 ga because of the heated back glass option. And I *think* '73 has the molded insulation on the R6 wire connection at the alternator ring terminal. If so, then it was easier to cut it out than leave it in when installing the option wiring on the prodution line.
Here's pictures of a '73
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopa...-electric-rear-defrost.452729/post-1972817767
and a '74. Grommet in same location.
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dash-power-feed-confusion.469868/post-1973079675
One thing Redfish has said to watch for in early '70s cars is water leaks. He's observed that was somewhat common on those cars and caused electrical problems in the instrument area including the ammeter connections.
