Alternator recommendations? (and other very noob question)

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okan74duster

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Belated Happy Easter everyone. It is spring(ish) again and I want to work on my car as these days I will have some down time.

Attached you will find the alternator my 74 Duster has. In the future I want to install climate control, radios, and also LED headlights.

What alternator would you recommend? And what LED headlights, radio/carplay audio set? Amplifier, subwoofer and such?

Thank you all in advanced!

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Edit: This is a 318, auto.
 
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okan74duster said:
Belated Happy Easter everyone. It is spring(ish) again and I want to work on my car as these days I will have some down time.

Attached you will find the alternator my 74 Duster has. In the future I want to install climate control, radios, and also LED headlights.

What alternator would you recommend? And what LED headlights, radio/carplay audio set? Amplifier, subwoofer and such?

Thank you all in advanced!

View attachment 1716230065

View attachment 1716230066

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View attachment 1716230068

Edit: This is a 318, auto.
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This should work..

100amp.


DODGE Proform Parts 440-471 Proform Alternators | Summit Racing
 
Unless you're prepared to spend over 200 EACH on LED headlights, I don't recommend them and even then you might not get good ones. I recommend upgrading to the H4 halogen style head lamps and installing the headlight relay harness so the lights will get alternator voltage.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Unless you're prepared to spend over 200 EACH on LED headlights, I don't recommend them and even then you might not get good ones. I recommend upgrading to the H4 halogen style head lamps and installing the headlight relay harness so the lights will get alternator voltage.
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Ok, cool, thank you!

You got any recommendations for both in mind?

German autobahn do not have lights so I thought the bright af LED headlights maybe the move.

Super-Cuda said:
This should work..

100amp.


DODGE Proform Parts 440-471 Proform Alternators | Summit Racing
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Sorry I am new af, so 110 would be enough for what I am thinking?
 
Rusty is correct.

There is a member on here that goes by name Crackedback .

He is an extremely knowledgeable person on headlamp systems and how to properly adjust them.

I bought his relay controlled H-4 Headlamp system for my 68 Barracuda and it works "brilliantly" (great place to use that pun LOL !! )
 
Super-Cuda said:
Rusty is correct.

There is a member on here that goes by name Crackedback .

He is an extremely knowledgeable person on headlamp systems and how to properly adjust them.

I bought his relay controlled H-4 Headlamp system for my 68 Barracuda and it works "brilliantly" (great place to use that pun LOL !! )
Click to expand...

Crackedback makes a highly recommended outstanding relay harness.
For the actual headlamp information check out this thread...
Sealed Beam Headlights

slantsixdan is our resident headlamp guru.
 
okan74duster said:
Ok, cool, thank you!

You got any recommendations for both in mind?

German autobahn do not have lights so I thought the bright af LED headlights maybe the move.


Sorry I am new af, so 110 would be enough for what I am thinking?
Click to expand...
Well... I'm running H-4 headlamps, 1000w stereo system, all instrument cluster and interior lights are LED. 515 HP Stroker Magnum engine with a 4-speed, no air and no issues what so ever.
 
You can figure the amp draw from everything and add it up, to figure the size of the alternator, battery is to start your car alternator powers the electronics.

Stereo alone can eat a lot of juice, 1000 Watts rms / 12 = 83.33 amps obviously that's cranked and at music peaks.

To figure out the amps of each fused circuit fuse size is the max value of those circuits with a safety margin.

Obviously everything generally ain't on and going full tilt at the same time so you don't necessarily need 100% capability.
 
273 said:
You can figure the amp draw from everything and add it up, to figure the size of the alternator, battery is to start your car alternator powers the electronics.

Stereo alone can eat a lot of juice, 1000 Watts rms / 12 = 83.33 amps obviously that's cranked and at music peaks.

To figure out the amps of each fused circuit fuse size is the max value of those circuits with a safety margin.

Obviously everything generally ain't on and going full tilt at the same time so you don't necessarily need 100% capability.
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I was going to ask this, can I just opt for bigger (so long as it mounts) and just not worry about it?
 
okan74duster said:
I was going to ask this, can I just opt for bigger (so long as it mounts) and just not worry about it?
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Excess is better than not enough. But if you only got a 100-150 amps worth of electronics no need spending extra money on 200-300+ amp alternator.
 
okan74duster said:
And what LED headlights, radio/carplay audio set? Amplifier, subwoofer and such?
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Just a note...

These old car's electrical systems were NOT designed for high current draw devices. IF you decide to add all kinds of loads I would recommend you add a power tap / buss bar to the alternator output and then run all your loads off of that., You will need an ignition switch controlled relay with sufficient current caring capacity to control buss bar.

Also the stock output from the alternator goes into the car through the bulkhead connector (prone to overheating, melting / catching fire) then to the main splice (where most of the car is powered from) then to the Ammeter then back through the bulk head on another connector, then to the starter relay post then to the battery. There is a By pass called the MAD bypass that will eliminate the bulkhead connectors and the ammeter.

The reason to bypass the bulkhead and ammeter is while the engine is running the current coming off of the alternator output is the perfect source, but if all that load is on and you shut off the engine then all that load must be powered from the battery. that means it all has to go through the path I outlined above (but in reverse) and the wiring is not up to the challenge.
 
before the alt. i'd recommend the proper oulleys and brackets. you have a/c pulleys on that thing now.
 
273 said:
Excess is better than not enough.
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not on our cars stock wiring. Excess will lead to a meltdown of the stock wiring if the added loads are not isolated from the stock wiring. Our cars original alternators were 30ish amp, some 60ish but with some wiring mods (think Police / Taxi)

But I get your point... your home wiring has a 20 amp circuit to run a 60W light bulb.
 
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okan74duster said:
I was going to ask this, can I just opt for bigger (so long as it mounts) and just not worry about it?
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Mine is a custom built 100A chrome plated square back Mopar alternator.

I have a friend who used to do repairs/rebuilds to alternators commercially and he put it together for me.

Not cheap!!
Dana67Dart said:
Just a note...

These old car's electrical systems were NOT designed for high current draw devices. IF you decide to add all kinds of loads I would recommend you add a power tap / buss bar to the alternator output and then run all your loads off of that., You will need an ignition switch controlled relay with sufficient current caring capacity to control buss bar.

Also the stock output from the alternator goes into the car through the bulkhead connector (prone to overheating, melting / catching fire) then to the main splice (where most of the car is powered from) then to the Ammeter then back through the bulk head on another connector, then to the starter relay post then to the battery. There is a By pass called the MAD bypass that will eliminate the bulkhead connectors and the ammeter.

The reason to bypass the bulkhead and ammeter is while the engine is running the current coming off of the alternator output is the perfect source, but if all that load is on and you shut off the engine then all that load must be powered from the battery. that means it all has to go through the path I outlined above (but in reverse) and the wiring is not up to the challenge.
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All this!!

I should have been more specific in my answer as I upgraded my wiring for both the headlights and the stereo.

Power supply isolation and noise suppression circuitry plus relay triggered operation and fusing for the stereo.
 
I use these lights..I have been running them in my jeep, and my dart for 10 years.. they are basically plug and play and require no mods to your wiring. They pull very low amperage too.

there are less expensive ones and they are total crap, don’t waste your money.
 
Heywodja said:
I use these lights..I have been running them in my jeep, and my dart for 10 years.. they are basically plug and play and require no mods to your wiring. They pull very low amperage too.

there are less expensive ones and they are total crap, don’t waste your money.
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Link ?
 
What is up with the site? I keep getting errors when trying to post.
 
okan74duster said:
Ok, cool, thank you!

You got any recommendations for both in mind?

German autobahn do not have lights so I thought the bright af LED headlights maybe the move.


Sorry I am new af, so 110 would be enough for what I am thinking?
Click to expand...
I used Cibie E code 7" headlamps on both my vehicles along with the relay harness.
 
RustyRatRod said:
used Cibie E code 7" headlamps on both my vehicles along with the relay harness.
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Main reason I went with the LED is the 1.5 amp draw instead of the 5-8 amp draw of sealed beams.
I have EFI, an electric fuel pump and dual electric fans on the radiator, so my main concern was not putting too much strain on the antique wiring.

When I had my dart in for the makeover, I had the entire electric system revamped with a trunk mounted battery setup with 2-gauge welding cable that Cracked Back made for me.

I ripped out the old wiring and replaced it with an American Autowire 26 circuit harness which almost everything runs off relays now.

I still am running the truklites though because they are BRIGHT and I like how they look... lol

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RustyRatRod said:
I used Cibie E code 7" headlamps on both my vehicles along with the relay harness.
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I'm pretty sure mine are identical to yours Rusty.

they work great while still having a stock appearance.



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The retail availability and selection in Germany for lamps is probably a bit different than here in the U S of A.

I have nothing else to add as Dana described the situation. These cars were designed to start up on the battery and then run the engine and 'accessories' off the alternator. All those additional loads need to be wired into a completely reworked system designed to handle them. The headlight relay system is a must for durability and performance - unless - maybe with LED lamps since the draw is relatively low. The headlight relays can be done regardless because headlights are normally only used when the engine is running.
 
I'd focus on learning about the car and fixing things.
Mounting spacers are too short.

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Stator is for a revised squareback, so the alt should already be capable of 60 amps, but the higher field current of those alts can cause regulation issues.
 
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