Paint questions...

As a footnote on lacquer based high solids primers, they've been used for decades with great results under urethanes, beginning back in the days of the first patents awarded to DuPont. Shrinkback and sand scratches in lacquers were not merely due to the base chemicals.........they had more to do with improper surfacing and curing times. The high solids have a definitive place in restoration and repair, if used properly and allowed their correct cure times.

The new 2K's are great, and have less tendency to shrinkage, and are very aggressively adhesive........but like some of their sticky cousins, they can be hell on sandpaper and your overall patience if you don't know what you're doing........they have to dry properly......you can't hurry the stuff much more than with old enamels.......more laborious to block also......

That previous advice about bondo over bare metal is right as rain ...........the stuff does NOT act as a sealer, and lets moisture through........old school tech taught us to put it right over the bare black steel........later, that same steel rusted, and the body work bubbled..........bondo is much better THIN, and OVER your epoxies or etching primers (which have been properly roughed).........even some shop teachers are still telling kids to pile it on the bare metal..........it will generally lead to misery down the road.

I know the tech of the modern paints can be confusing, BUT if you had experience 17 years ago, all you'll need is a solid week or so of study to catch up on what you need to know........then you'll be back on the horse.......paint that car yourself.........I guarantee the finished job will "shine" more due to your own sense of satisfaction. If you screw up the base, just shoot it over.....it's very forgiving......and the clears can be sanded and buffed just like lacquer........no worries there either.........follow directions, and you'll be fine. 8)