Need help from the paint pros

Amzchad,

I don't even know where to begin. (LOL)

Reds, Yellows, and Oranges are the most expensive colours, in any brand of paint.

I prefer 2k base/clear paints because you can colour sand and polish if so desired. If applied properly (evenly) and the car is a daily driver the 2k material makes a nice finished product.

I'll try to keep the prep part simple. I strongly suggest you read several books on refinishing before you jump into a complete paint job for the first time. Miscues can be costly and time consuming. A job well done can be very rewarding, one you will always remember.


Step 1: checking the overall condition of the car

Check the car over carefully. You are looking for small dents and noting the general condition of the paint. I hope most or all the brightwork (trim) has been removed. I prefer to have the car elevated, it's easier on the back.

If you see small dents they can be repaired with a 2k spot putty. The key word is "small". Read the label on the can. There are a multitude of 2k spot repair putties out there, some require different repair processes. Some are very poor quality but I won't get into that. If you're checking the whole car for dents , etc. in one go I like to use painters tape to mark each dent, major imperfection. This way very few get overlooked during the repair prep process. Some painters use chalk or a marker of some kind, not a good practice.

If the painted surface (panel) is checked, crazed, or badly scarred I strongly suggest you strip that panel completely. It'll be easier than trying to save it by sanding for hours on end.

Small imperfections such as chips and scratches can be sanded.



Step 2 - Sanding (feathering)

Chips and minor surface imperfections can be sanded out by using 180-220 grit wet or dry paper, closely followed by 320 and 400 grit wet or dry paper. I prefer to finish sand with 600 wet but it's not necessary for what you are doing. Finish sand with 400 grit wet or dry paper.

A good rule of thumb is when you are feathering (sanding) an imperfection and run into the various layers of paint, sand leaving a 1/4 inch ring for every layer of material. When you're done an area it will look like the rings of a tree when it's cross-sectioned.

Step 3 - Priming

Please note that it's not necessary to prime the entire car, provided the previous finish is in good condition. You'l have to be the judge on this call.

I strongly suggest using a 2k high build repair primer, apply 2-3 overlapping coats should cover most sanded /repaired areas. If the impefection is still visible I suggest you hand block the repaired or primered area with 320 grit dry or wet and recoat.

Step 4 - final sand

This is the last step of a quick repaint. Sand entire car, machine or hand sand, wet or dry, which ever you are comfortable with. Sand 1 panel at a time, blow it or wipe it off and check that panel for imperfections. If it's OK move on to the next panel, if not redo the panel before moving on.


Step 5 clean the entire car

Blow the entire car off, wash with soap and water. Wet and dry wipe with a prep sol or 50/50 alcohol and water solution.


Step 6 - mask and shoot

Mask, and move in into the booth or mask the car in the booth.

Tack it and shoot it.

FYI - buy a decent spray gun, it's worth it in the long run. Binks and Devilbiss are my favorites. Gravity or suction feeds are also options you have.

Good Luck!!

sscuda