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I use 10W30 since 2004. My only gauges are what came on the factory rally dash. I don't have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, so I have nothing to worry about. Just Like I don't have an aftermarket temp. gauge, so again no worries. Without worries, I can just driiiive it, lol. well, to be...

Yes. more than once; it's no big deal.

As for a hesitation. If the car hesitates with a slow throttle tip-in, that is called a hesitation or tip-in sag. Almost invariably, this is caused by a failure of the Transfers to respond in a timely fashion; usually because the throttles are too far closed. as for a stumble if when you whack...

What's that old saying? You can't make a silkpurse from a sow's ear? There's another one that talks about seedlines.

Just install appropriate-length bolts and it will be fine. You can washer-up a too long bolt but the next guy, if you ever sell it, may not know why they are there. Use any measuring rod to find the water jacket, and then stay away from it, lol.

You can put your own TDC mark on the balancer or the cover, anywhere that is convenient, which makes matching any of these parts a non issue. You can even use the 273 style removable timing tab, if it fits. Then you can either use a dial-back lite, or install a timing tape, or just mark off...

...you can hang under your hotrod, that still clear the speed-bumps. Fourth best is a cold-air intake system; the engine cannot make power with 240* plus temperature under-hood air. --------------------------------------------------------------- I recommend a 2800 & 4.30 gears, 3.91s minimum...

I have one for my car on standby, for same reason. As much as those in charge deceive us, occasionally they throw in something that sortof sounds plausible. So then, if my fancy Direct-Injected, DOHC, twin phasered SFI hotrod Orlando won't start after one of them EMPs goes thru the land, well...

Memory-steer, as you call it, is usually; lack of caster; and btw; excessive rake steals caster. or more likely is that the steering box set-up too tight, or the lower BJs are tight, or Low tire pressures, or just general tightness in the steering somewhere. Jack the car up under the lower...

...NOT having the Transfers synced properly to the mixture screws, and thus running rich, like 90% of the time. Now I know that most of you swear by 18* or more, of idle timing, and I get why. I tried it too. But I'll bet nearly every one of you who do that, have so-called carb issues like...

My Opinion; My non-coated TTIs went through 5>6 years as a 4-seasons DD, and a couple more summers besides, until the driver's side rusted thru in the merge. I took it down, brazed it up and it went another bunch of years. The P-side went a couple of summers further than the Driver's side, and...

My question is this; who posted the video to u-tube? and why? For all we know, could it be fake?

Just curious; what are we working on? What Carb? Automatic choke? Did you ever have a carb fire? Is it; Popping during cranking? and ALSO, popping during warm up? But Ok after fully warmed up? Have you tested the compression yet? How big is your cam? and does it have solid lifters? You got the...

How much of a mismatch are we talking about? https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/rotors-available-for-now-for-k-h-disc-brake-cars.541015/

I have done that 7.25>8.75 swap more than a few times, and it always required a different driveshaft. However, having gone from an 8.25>8.75, in a 1984 D100, the same shaft did work for me. Not perfect, but drove the truck for many years that way.

Sorry for your loss More sorry for your health. I am just 5 years behind you.

1) I have a bit of trouble with big metering-rod carbs, and late-closing intake valves. I find Holley carbs easier. Except, for strictly cruising, then the M-rod system is hard to beat. And so, my favorite is and will always be, the Thermoquads. When the Airgaps began to show up at the...

If you have a "bit of a cam" in that 360, I highly recommend to NOT run a flexfan, on account of, I have not had any good experiences with those. Every time I use one of those, I have cooling issues. Your results may vary. If you decide to run one; NEVER rev the engine up while your body is in...

Here is the easy test; Near-ground the coil's hi-voltage output wire, anywhere from .25 >.5 inch. Send battery voltage to the Coil +. Run a jumper wire back towards a known to be good, ground. Watching the Hi-voltage wire, slap the jumper to ground and get it off as fast as you can. You should...

I can round up all the parts you need, in baskets, and cores. but that's the best I can do.

You'll get about 1.8 psi for each degree of Cam advance. and/or same 1.8psi per an increase of 1/10 of a compression point. Swapping from 039s to 028s at same 4.18 bore is worth about 3/10s compression ratio, and 7psi. A custom 020 gasket with a 4.07 hole, will get you 4.5cc, less than the...

...in the back, and a 10.5 PV. Sync the Transfer ports, reset your pumps, Modify your VA and Mechanical Timing Curve to, together, generate at least 48* of Cruise timing. Here's how to set your cruise timing exactly right. 1) check your timing at cruise-rpm 2) rev your engine up to cruise rpm...

...a manual trans, and 24" tires; 65mph calculates to 3400rpm. For cruising and to get optimum fuel economy your timing is gonna want to be about 56* advanced. with an auto-trans your rpm might be/should be, within +/- 3 %. What I imagine; and/or am afraid of; > is that cylinder pressure is...

What's your cylinder pressure? To pull 2.94s off the line, yur gonna need a lotta pressure. I have a similar cam in my 360 and it likes a minimum of 180psi for bottom-end torque and a starter gear of 10>11:1. IDK what a 4.20 ratio Second gear is except maybe a typo, but no matter, IMO 2.94s...

...is Nothing you can do to your engine (normally Aspirated) that can get you plus 71% more take off power than gears and stall. That cam (say a 262* advertised), with no other changes, is likely to DROP your cylinder pressure to 120 from 140, making take-off extremely mushy. That will end up...

If you put the same cover back on the box, this should not be a problem.

Changing a B/E body trans to an A-body involves changing the tail, the Mainshaft, and usually the rear bearing. Additionally, the B-body front retainer will not fit into the standard A-body BH. This is an easy fix by using the A/F-body overdrive BH and front retainer. Some guys have machined the...

Yeah. this is a two-parter Part-1, hydraulics Take the wheels off, and remove the calipers. Go get a pair of big iron C-clamps and clamp the pistons into the bores, all the way down and hard. Hang the calipers up so the lines don't kink. Now go step on the pedal. It should be high and hard; No...

I am a streeter. but by it's trapspeed, my 367 is making 430 hp. I am very happy with the CF diaphragm PP, the Stock Flywheel, and a factory 340 organic disc. However; the discs barely make it thru one, or mayb, two summers with my driving style. The discs usually fail by 1) cracking at the...

Is it power assisted? And no, you MUST NOT use a "hold-off" valve, which is usually called a "residual-valve", in the front brake system. The use of it will override "seal-retraction", and then your front pads will not come off the rotors, and something bad will happen.