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Right?! It's May! Really it's only a couple inches and it's going to warm right back up so it'll be gone in a day or two. Wasn't exactly motivational to get started pulling the transmission today though

I haven't heard of it being recovered. Probably overseas in some billionaires garage. Tell yourself whatever you like, but anyone that's spent any amount of time as a tow truck driver can pull your car straight out without any issues, regardless of the wheels being turned. I guess you've never...

Here's a few for the "the weather is always nice in California so it's easy to drive all the time" crowd. No, it's not all beaches and palm trees... These are from today!!!

A set of wheel dollies or tow truck skates and the lock boot and disconnect don’t mean a thing. Gets dragged onto a rollback or into a trailer and away it goes. A cut off or simple ignition ground switch is plenty for stopping a joy rider. Clubs and wheel boots and all that crap are...

A little update, my constant searching for the Circuit Car catalog paid dividends and I scored a cheap copy on eBay! Was super stoked about that, it was practically a steal and that's not something that happens on eBay much anymore. It even came with a copy of the '74 Chrysler Kit Car...

I am sure that I have never seen any kind of adhesive or vulcanizing at that bushing. All of the ones I have seen have been a friction fit. And really there’s no need for anything else. The amount of compression that takes place on the rubber means the pressure and resulting friction force on...

The only UCA that will physically fit is from an A-body. B/E, C body UCA's are all substantially wider and won't fit into the mounts. Sounds like you've done a bunch of suspension work lately, if the car has not settled down to factory ride height or lower then you won't be able to accurately...

Only if there's something wrong with your carburetor or you have a major heat soak issue. I've never had that issue with my Holley double pumper, even in 110° temperatures. Even the Edelbrock I run on my truck takes several days.

With mass production there will always be a small percentage of errors, it just happens. Most should get caught in quality control, but inevitably some will get through. It’s just part of the deal. Everyone seems to want to throw the manufacturer under the bus because they’re the ones that got...

I'm still running the same pair of DynoMax UltraFlo's on my Duster as I was in 2018 when I originally commented on this post. No issues at all, well over 30k miles on them now.

Yep, and if the secondaries are coming in early that could definitely contribute to some pretty crappy mileage.

I know you're aware I'm a bit of a "wheel hound" so I have spent entirely too much time looking at wheels and considering my wheel and tire options. Like, WAY too much time. If you want to run square with big wheels, you can go up to 18x10 and a 285/35/18 with work on the front fenders...

Yeah, I, and a bunch of other people have assumed at one point or another that the order was reversed, since that makes the most sense- the mandate for 5mph bumpers took effect and there was a mid-year switch. But because of some kind of production issue in the front, it was actually backward...

Funny story, the trailer sales company I just bought a trailer from uses a torque wrench to tighten their lug nuts. And made me sign an acknowledgment that I had been read the torque intervals for the wheels at 50, 100, and 1,000 miles. (New wheels and axles). I’m guessing they’ve been sued...

Yeah the front really isn’t the issue. The rears are harder to find, especially in combination with the front because of the much lower offset needed. One solution is actually a wider rear axle, if 18x9’s or 9.5’s are the goal then a 68-70 B body 8 3/4 will put you in a spot where +30’s should...

No clarification needed, the rotational forces don't have to be against the direction of the threads for thermal expansion or harmonic vibrations to loosen the lug nuts. Those forces will loosen lug nuts regardless of the direction of thread and side of the car. Which is why EVERY wheel and...

I definitely didn't build my car for mpg's! But with a 340 and your basic engine information, even with 3.73's you should be doing better than 10 mpg, forget 6 mpg. My 340 has a bigger cam, higher compression and the same sized carb, and even with a heaver car I can get 12 mpg. And I drive it...

No way. If he can't clear 10mpg there's something wrong. I've got a bigger cam and a heavier car and even with 3.55's on the freeway doing 70+ I was doing 12 mpg with no vacuum advance even.

Definitely have some tuning to do, you should be getting closer to double that for mileage. For reference, the 340 in my Duster is a '68 340, .060" over, 9.8:1 compression with 308 heads, 2.02/1.60 valves, 65 cc's chambers, stage II ported and flowing 264 cfm at .500", it has a Lunati 60404...

Those wheels are a replica of a Mustang wheel, I think the closest to your picture is probably this one although it's a dark matte charcoal... Mustang AMR Charcoal Wheel; 18x8 (10-14 Mustang, Excluding 13-14 GT500) - Free Shipping There are a bunch of wheels from different manufacturers though...

It’s also true that the different metals used for brake drums, wheel studs, lug nuts and the actual wheel all have different thermal expansion rates, so that heat cycling from braking will loosen lug nuts. Wheel balance and harmonic vibrations will do the same. Which is exactly why every car...

Yes, and it’s such a tiny force that it’s completely irrelevant if you just tighten the lug nuts. Which is why no major manufacturer that uses a multi-lug pattern uses LH threads on the left side of the car and haven’t for 50 years. If you truly understood the physics at hand, you wouldn’t...

Probably because they actually did the math, the wheel guns are calibrated to provide exactly the right torque spec, and when properly torqued the psi on the nut will be more than enough to resist the small force exerted on the nut by the rotation of the wheel.

None of this is accurate! Early ‘74’s started out with shock mounted bumpers, from August of ‘73 (model year ‘74 production) until ~December of ‘73 all of the ‘74’s had front mounted shock bumpers. These cars had only 1 mounting bolt for the shock mounts on each rail. That shock mounted bumper...

Exactly. That kind, the plastic thread in version, was made to screw in to replace a metal plug and was only supposed to be used to set the float height. Then you removed them and put the brass plug back in. They weren’t ever supposed to be left in place. The new ones that are permanently...

I think some folks are confused about the old plastic sight level plugs, which were supposed to be temporary, and the new permanent glass inserts that are used. Lots of new carburetors come with glass inserts now. The Holley Ultra double pumpers like the one I have on my Duster (0-76750BK) do...

You absolutely need 15” rims to run the 11 3/4” rotors, minimum. I seem to recall there are some reproduction 15” wheels out there that have issues with caliper clearance too.

The K frame is absolutely worth reinforcing. I fully seam weld mine, as well as boxing in the steering box mount and adding reinforcing plates to the ends of the LCA pivot tubes. Some of that is probably overkill, but the steering box mounts on one of my '74 K frames had cracked and broken loose...

They're both part of the suspension system. The fact that the torsion bar is more critical doesn't mean the sway bar isn't also an important component. And again, that has absolutely no bearing on bending or heating a metal bar that has been previously heat treated that will be loaded in...

I think realistically a small amount of bending isn’t going to make a dramatic, noticeable change or make the bar unsafe or anything like that. That would be more true for a solid factory bar too, rather than say a large diameter, hollow, aftermarket sway bar like the Hellwig. Bending a smaller...