Search results for query: *

Yea, what he said. Both times. :D

Sweet wheel. I vote leave it like it is.

Are you saying the center register is bigger, or that the replacement rotor doesn’t go down flat on the hub? I have had to slightly counter sink the back of rotors so it fits over the stud swedges. And I have gotten centric rings that take up the space between the rim center and a smaller hub.

Agreed, plus it’s not like it’s getting rebuilt.

Hey, it must work. Golf balls have zero emissions.

Ah, so you have most of the same complaints I have with folders, libraries and volumes. I wish there was a separate volume control for turn by turn vs music playback. Turn by turn is always too quiet, or I have to have the music too loud, so I can hear what it says. Curious to see how the new...

I have a hard time leaving this alone. We have one modified and one not, and it’s sooo tempting to put a 4 barrel and a Wieand intake that I have on the yellow 72. It’s a 2 barrel 318, single exhaust car.

My current head unit is playing not so funny games. One day I noticed a battery drain over the course of 2-3 days and found that the memory function of the unit was causing it. The memory wire of the unit is supposed to be connected to full time 12v, but it was bleeding power over to the head...

The original post sounds exactly like a bad battery cable connection. The starter wouldn’t blow a fusible link.

That is the type of car I have the most interest in at car shows. The shiny restored ones are boring.

I’m currently running a stock style smallblock distributor with a mag pickup that has been recurved with the Mr. Gasket springs, the long tip rotor and an 8 pin HEI module with the matching Ecore coil. It’s been flawless for years, and I really can’t imagine changing. But I have another brand...

I would think a restorer would like to have that.

Eddie Murphy? :D

All this is stuff that needs to be verified with eyes on it. Or, we could just guess all day just for fun. :D

When in an argument or “discussion” and the other person is clearly wrong, and won’t listen to proof or facts you might as well just shut it down. Well, unless a person just likes to argue. I don’t, and let people keep their opinions if they choose to ignore facts. All too common these days.

I feel your pain on that one, as I delt with a couple those. I have a mig, tools and even taps and dies. So what did I do? Stuck a paper clip half way through and bent it down then put the screws in.

FYI, they do make wheel centric rings if you use a wheel with a larger center.

Or to use for ones personal information to be used as an aid to win that argument by making them give up. I don’t generally label people, but I do recognize personality traits pretty quickly.

Try shorter pedal strokes and slower pedal returns. Heck, even try gravity bleeding.

Usually when the housing breaks it’s because of an out of balance driveshaft. Too long and they jam the trans internals together causing end play clearances to go away and smashing parts together.

Had a brand new one built and it was about the same.

Hm.

I know it sucks to wait, but it is always best to measure once the trans is in.

“Whaaaat?,,,,,,,,,No way” :D

That’s exactly what I wanted to avoid, so I did something about it before it happened. I saw somewhere the guy put a plastic 90 on the back of the unit and ran the drain farther over. Unfortunately I already drilled the drain hole before that. It works fine the way it is now.

Yes, it’s normal. What I didn’t care for was the condensation drain dumping right onto my hedders. I extended the drain tube with 3/8 vacuum tubing and ran it down next to the frame rail.

Missing or broken return spring on the TP lever will cause varying degrees of late shifts at light throttle.

What I would do is start disconnecting linkage parts until I found what was holding it open. If I didn’t find it doing that I would make sure the throttle plates inside the carb were centered when closed.

Personally I’d like to see some with a larger flat added to the curved area.