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Rear end alone can cost quite a bit, probably will have a 7 1/4, so depends how you go about it, can end up upgrading everything in the back. $$$$, plus it's a fairly big job for some. Plus in the end of the day most will be lucky if they go as a deep as 3.55 gear set.

The good thing about a stock 318 it's such a turd in power it's easy to gain 20-30%+ over stock your gonna feel it no matter the gears.

Here's a stock low cr 2bbl 318 with headers to 4bbl and comp xe262h cam almost a 100 hp gain, 189 hp to 282 hp, who knows what the 4bbl would of made on it's own. https://www.motortrend.com/articles/mopp-0312-318-long-block-bolt-ons/

Here's a stock low cr 360 2bbl to stock 4bbl intake and Q jet, picked up 35 ish hp and more usable rpm, made more power from 2000 rpms and up but didn't start getting good gains until after 2800/3000 rpms. I know it's not a 318, but it's closest we got. Video start where he list the gains.

TF would be worth it not just for the top end they definitely doing better down low.

From what prices I just seen looks like a $700 price difference, so I guess what you value more, the SM were cheaper per peak hp don't know about average. Wonder how well just the regular SM would do especially with a mild home port job ?

I didn't think the CNC SM would do as well as the trick flows.

Around that

By middle ground I meant below that is more RV type cams and above is getting more street strip type cams. It’s kind of crossover point it’s not quite rv and not street strip.

Max Wedge ? It's always been my dream car.

One of my favorite Mopars along with the 62-64 Polara

You've collected more then enough information to do that, a basic 4 bbl with duals and a good tune is probably all you need, start there and if you need more go from there a mod at a time until your satisfied.

Looks like traction is needed :)

The Best analogy I can think to explain my point of view, is electrical so watts = hp, amps = torque and volts = rpm. So your buying an amplifier for a stereo and to be able to reach a certain loudness , Watts how much power the amp makes would be you main concern for it’s ability for loudness...

True and for most street guy's were dealing in a fairly narrow rpm range idle to 5000/6000 rpms generally. So yes more torque you can gain in this range especially in the high rpms of it the more power you'll have, but really the goal is more power. I just seen what Newbomb Turk just asked you...

It's kind of considered middle ground for a street cam, above this level each step up you generally tend to start really trading bottom end power for top end power and gears stall starts to become more and more necessary. Obviously not set into stone.

It's basically a 5.2l Magnum :)

My crate cam supposedly has around .509-.513 lift don't know with what retainers.

Here's a comp xe262h with 4bbl and headers with stock heads and cr, so you'd have better heads and cr but slight loss with manifolds, should be an overall gain on these numbers. https://www.motortrend.com/articles/mopp-0312-318-long-block-bolt-ons/ TORQUE SUPERFLOW 901 DYNO-TESTED AT WESTECH...

Think of an electric motor, unlike a gas engine an electric motor can produce torque without rpms (movement). So if an electric motor is applying torque to your tires but producing zero movement (rpms) then zero work is being done and zero hp being made and all the energy being made into heat...

The hp is what's needed, if it takes a minimum of 400 hp to do the task you need to make at least 400 hp but torque theoretically be any amount eg.. 1 lbs-ft x 2,100,800 rpm or 2,100,800 lbs-ft x 1 rpm both equal 400 hp and so do an infinite amount of other combinations but obviously most are...

The level of performance is an HP issue, you need a certain amount of HP to accomplish what ever your after. How you get that HP is a design issue, you got to figure out best rpm range gears etc.. And how much torque is needed at those rpms to make the hp to accomplish what ever performance...

Plus everyone talks torque from a dyno perspective (at the crank) but should be looking at it from the tire perspective, if we measure torque and hp at the tire especially with same size tire and if were in similar weighted cars doing similar quarter mile times we'll be putting down similar...

HP is what's ultimately important it doesn't matter what ratio of torque and rpm you make if from especially from a performance perspective eg.. I need X hp to do Y. The ratio of torque and rpm for a given hp is more of a design issue.

Is it just a mess under the hood ? The wiring pretty basic on these cars no reason you can't fix it. That's what I'm gonna do to mine. Here's a couple of places I just googled they seem to have the parts you may need. Mopar Restoration and Performance A-BODY ELECTRICAL, Wiring Harnesses...

Smaller carb doesn't equal less air and fuel it's just more restrictive.