Well the transmission is back together and I've replaced the majority of B&M parts with stock stuff:
B&M 5.0 lever - replaced with 3.8
B&M single front servo spring - replaced with conventional dual springs
B&M clutch springs - replaced with stock height springs (10)
B&M accumulator blocker rod...
I spoke with Quick Performance and their guy said the breather vent was probably bad. It's a new vent from DR Diff. The vent cap is floppy loose, not like the one on another 8.75 rear end I have. could that be the cause?
Disconnect the driveshaft and see if you can spin it in neutral using the driveshaft/yoke.
If you can, then try to spin the rear end, still with the driveshaft disconnected. 50/50 if the issue is the trans. (or linkage), or the rear end.
...S-C. I wish I had the confidence to try this myself. I have tried fixing things in the past with some disappointing results. I would lose my s*** if I messed something up on this car.
I understand about it being even better when you can work on/fix things yourself. I play bass and I...
They were boring underground here. Keep hitting water and gas lines that no one knew existed. So now, everything is going up on poles above ground and they’re replacing all the poles…
SBF aftermarket blocks are like 3K so if we extrapolate the data and let pricing history guide us, the aftermarket would grace us with 4500 repop 340 blocks.
bonus if they made them in under 4" bore so us 318 guys could reuse our pistons.
anyway, what's a R3 or ritter block run? like 3~4K? i...
Well... there's a right way and a ton of wrong ways to do something. Sounds like your car's worth it and its even better when you learn to do something yourself.
Your issue is not that complicated and is easily fixed following the right procedures.
There's a vast wealth of info on this...
All, the slotted holes will work for all small blocks 273, 318, 340, and 360. You need 2 hardened .125 thick washers under the main bolts to use with 273 or 318, unless you have the special shorter 318 main bolts for the tray.