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The 383HP engines did not use the same camshaft. They used the "Road Runner Cam" that I and a few others have referenced multiple times.

You're not looking very hard. https://www.ebay.com/itm/364364943701

What are you doing with the car? Just a street car? I would look for some NOS Monroe heavy duty hydraulic shocks. That's what they came with and they rode just fine.

Tom, have you tried here? https://www.wittrans.com/

Like hell I will. I'd never wake up. I'm sure that'd satisfy some people here and elsewhere, though. lol

Naw, it is. You are correct.

The biggest thing I can thing of muriatic acid is used for is the etching and cleaning of tombstones and in the marble industry. Something that strong would be a real bad choice for aluminum. lol

That was Bruce Sizemore's Pinto Pro stock car. It was a Ford 300.

Old car sounds strong.

There you go thinkin again. LOL

Regardless, I'd like to know more about it. Keep us posted.

Nice yall. We should let this be the main cruise thread to memorialize abodybomber Tim (RIP). I'll add a few before long.

I gotta lil chubby myself and it ain't even mine.

You DO NOT INCLUDE VACUUM ADVANCE speaking about timing. It is whatever it is when you plug the vacuum can in, UNLESS you have an adjustable vacuum can and then you can use that to tailor the vacuum advance to come in at different vacuum levels. Total timing = initial idle timing plus the...

Both of those were due to road crown. It drifted to the same side of the road.

I'll also add this. The timing curve isn't the same across the board. It is very combination dependent. In other words, all the figures talked about here will get you on the playing field. But you will need to further experiment with it to narrow it down more.

If it always drifts to the right, it's likely the road crown. Go to a parking lot and try it. It'll still probably drift a little but I bet it's a lot less.

Correct. You also need to plug off the hose going to the distributor while you're checking timing or it will leak vacuum and possibly throw off your measurements.

Most will stand a bore that heavy and heavier. The 5" plus crank though.....no. lol

People have filled until the oil drools out the fill plug hole for decades, but that's actually incorrect and could lead to an overfill situation. The factory service manual has a spec for the quantity of gear oil to fill it with. That's what I would follow.

Yes. It's fine. The 32-36 degrees is without the vacuum can connected, just like I said the first time.

Sounds cool, but still had to be done by one of the methods I described. I'd like to see and hear it. Old school stuff like this really intrigues me.

With the vacuum can connected, 57 is perfectly acceptable. You don't include the vacuum advance when measuring initial timing. The total timing usually ends up between 32 and 36 degrees. That's initial plus mechanical. If you need to limit the total mechanical advance, it's time to disassemble...

The only way to do it would be some kind extreme high dollar custom crank or offset grinding a stock one. At 4.125", it's kinda strange anyone would want to try it. A LOT of people think that putting the long rod in one makes it a stroker, when the only way to do that is to increase the...

Yeah they will live fine. The one I have is a 1995 World Class Tremec T5. The stated max torque spec is 330 LBFT, but all the Ford guys agree they'll take "somewhere" above 400. Suffice it to say they'll live fine. I'm doing it to mine, too.

And you know, ALL it takes to run any automotive machine equipment is two things. Common sense and the ability to read a mic. If you possess those two abilities, you can figure out the equipment, even if it's state of the art...in fact, most of those machines are easy to operate.

I think Nick is sharp at what he DOES and I like him. He has a youtube channel and has basically a dyno TV show. Nobody knows it all, BUT it does seem like he would know some of this stuff that he's leaving out. Maybe he does and he just doesn't want to get in too deep on his show? I don't know...

Not when it's done correctly.

I don't know. I don't run a dyno for a living, so all I can do is guess. BUT, I'd say a good stout 383 with some good worked heads would be capable of 5 bills. I'm sure there are some guys here who've had some fast 383 cars and some still may.

And also ground on a 110 and not a 115. Big difference.