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So the F.A.S.T class is heading out to Empire Dragway this weekend. The folks at Empire are always do an incredible job for us and I can’t wait. Friday a handful of cars are going to do some testing during Empires Fridays T-N-T. With Saturday qualifying and Sunday eliminations. Cars are coming...

Running hot after Sniper EFI install

So, I searched “installed Holley sniper and now the car runs hot” there is a post on For B Bodies Only with someone had that issue. Johnny Mac posted and seemed to know the system well. You might reach out to him. He’s on here. I just read a bit of it, but the system might be trying to adjust...

Is this your kit?

In the other post, there is a diagram of the kit. It shows the pump turning clockwise. Coolant flow, as an example, my motor makes more heat than yours. I run the March underdrive crank pulley and a stock A/C water pump pulley, through a stock 340 radiator. They are pretty close to 1:1. So I...

Ok, found your other post and went through it. I saw that you thought you had a spring in the lower hose, the. determine did you didn’t. But I couldn’t find where you said you had put one in. Have you? My suggestion is, divide and conquers. Is it incorrect coolant flow or air flow or abnormal...

Do you have the spring in the lower radiator hose?

Nice!

I think people worry about the surface finish requirements too much. Especially on a deck surface that is not freshly machined.

It’s not the pump, I’ve run the cast iron pump for 10 years 12.2 to 1 with four of the arms cutoff. It bumps off the thermostat.

High turning torque creating an overheat condition would have let you know already, it would have wiped the bearings and started knocking. I hate to say it, but I would go back through the cooling system and list every part. Any other signs it is hot other than the gauge?

The RA needs of the cometic gaskets is not crazy. I searched the conversion to sandpaper grit to get an idea. I would not coat them, I did once and it leaked a bit. Dry from now on. Definitely stud time. Make sure the center rivet doesn’t get pinched between the head and the block. I have had it...

See the groove.

Most of the aftermarket rockers have a groove around the inside. This negates the need for a banana groove. I wouldn’t condemn your rockers. If the shafts are pretty worn, maybe new shafts. None of this equates to you oil question. Don’t want to scare you, but having a rocker seize to a shaft...

These are the banana grooves. Kinda funny that I searched banana groove shaft and the picture to the left is my toasted rocker.. :):)

I had one that acted funky brand new. Replaced it and no issues. It was inconsistent on holding power.

The notches are an indicator of the location of the oil holes. Know the orientation of the oil holes themselves and you KNOW they are correct. If the oil holes are down and biased towards the springs they are correct. You don’t have to worry if your notch is a real notch or the notch was machine...

Remember the shaft is upside down in the picture, but the arrow points to valve springs.

So you see how the bolt holes are not inline with the oil holes? You want the oil holes down and more towards the valve springs.

So, a note of caution, when you put it back together. Make sure the pushrods are seated in the center of the lifter. Due to the small blocks crazy lifter angle, you can have the pushrod sitting were the lifter body and plunger meet. Off center, that can hold the valve open or it reduces your...

Pretty sure it is controlling the car by blocking pressure from the rear. This is why it is inconsistent. The holding force is only what your foot is applying and you aren’t applying it enough. Try and push the button then drive it like it doesn’t have a line lock. Apply all the pedal pressure...

The shafts could have drained back, so it needs to fill the shafts again. No downside to just spinning the oil pump and just turn the crank 5 degrees at a time, look for oil. Give it a second each time. Repeat. Remember you need two full crank revolutions.

One thing that can happen is if you run this up in rpm. The smaller water pump pulley can spin fast enough to cause cavitation which will erode the front cover. I have had it happen. I have the original A/C water pump pulley (small) and spin it to 6500-6800 rpm. Put an anti cavitation plate on...

I have not been to a track that doesn’t require and overflow can. I have run closed end lug nuts forever, but always on a steel wheel. If you have sufficient engagement they might make you pull off a nut to show it. I have a loop, never had someone look for it.

I run that exact oil, have forever. I’m sure I’m leaving HP on the table with it, but it’s working for me.

This is something that I have thought about a bit. As crazy as it sounds, my cars setup really leans towards a radial style. The sidewall of the redline is pretty stiff and a radial car is usually under tired for the power level. I haven’t been able to dynamically test my therory, but I did...

I’m curious as to why it’s better. Is it because you are actually using the sidewall as tread or the change in sidewall angle might make the sidewall less rigid vertically? It must take a higher tire pressure?

So the belts you have are 7480 and 7370. The first 7 is the width of the belt, the last three numbers are the length. 48” and 37”. If they are 4” too long go buy a 7440 and 7330. If the number is 7485 it is 48.5” long. There are a number of water pump pulley dia. A/C, non A/C etc.