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Good info, that's the kind of thing I was curious about. I know the theory about how this all affects valve timing but I'm wanting to know how it will actually run from others' experiences.

I know advancing 2 degrees from straight-up would be unnoticeable but the cam is currently at least 4 degrees retarded (8÷2) so I was thinking that little extra might help just a tad more and also compensate for possible future chain stretch. I'll go the full 4 degrees advanced as long as it...

The 360 in my D200 has always run a bit funny, kinda rough idle and harder to start than it should be along with garbage fuel economy. I finally checked the slop in the timing chain by barring the engine back and forth and there is at least 8 degrees of slack so I'm going to put in a fresh...

"Fixed timing"? Is the distributor locked out? What is your actual ignition timing advance? I'm assuming no vacuum advance either? Too little advance at idle and part throttle will cause massive heat rejection into the cooling system. Second guy this week with issues likely related to...

Food for thought... My daily driver 2000 Buick has the 3.8L V-6 with an Eaton M-90 Roots supercharger from the factory. It has a pretty sophisticated (for the late '90s) ignition timing control and knock sensor system. The knock sensors can tell the severity of detonation and the computer will...

One of those things you hear a lot from people who haven't tried it themselves... I asked my machinist (experienced race engine builder) if I needed to deck my 5.9 Magnum block to work with Cometics. He said not to worry about it, factory finish is fine. Engine has been together with ARP...

You could just hook the VA up to manifold vacuum to pull in that extra timing if you don't want to add it in with more initial.

YouTube is really annoying about that, they'll keep feeding you videos on the same stuff based on your watch history. If you go and delete all your watch history the same stuff will stop popping up in your recommended videos. Just another way they keep us glued to our screens and watching...

I've always used Lucas ethanol treatment in my Duster and D200, they run a bit smoother with it and aren't as prone to boiling the gas in the carb on hot days in traffic. I drive them 1-2 times a week though and they generally get filled up once or maybe twice a month. I also use it in the gas...

12 pages, dang... I think this goes to show both engines are good and have potential, if one was objectively better than the other all around there wouldn't be this much arguing. Just like the Chevy vs Ford vs Dodge pickup truck guys lol. I didn't vote because I like both and each kind of has...

Maybe my case is different, mine has longtube headers, 4-bbl intake and recurved distributor but stock 2-bbl cam and it'll do 0-60 in about 8 seconds with 727, 3.54:1 full-floating D60 and 33" all terrains. Very little throttle input needed to get the truck moving. And it weighs about 4400#...

360 was originally conceived for 1971 model year as a lighter, more economical alternative to the 383 in C-bodies which were Mopar's biggest volume sellers at the time. Bigger mains from the start were to improve crank fatigue life due to the longer stroke (in theory). Iirc 1972 they started...

Apparently they rust pretty quickly if the body panels aren't meticulously maintained. Some review videos on YT that are pretty hilarious, not very practical for doing actual truck things. Plus you get that characteristic Tesla bad build quality, and recently they had a recall on all of them...

I completely understand your situation, I moved from Colorado to Georgia just about a year ago for similar reasons and am much happier here. I wouldn't rule out GA, less hazards for hurricane stuff and cost of living is very low. Just stay away from Atlanta, obviously. The Carolinas are nice...

Ok good, just making sure... I learned the hard way that the 'parts cannon' approach (wasted money). The fuel system mods you are doing are worthwhile even if there aren't any issues currently. Definitely sounds ignition-related at this point, I wouldn't rule out the MSD box being bad either...

Have you checked ignition timing yet? Alternators only put out as much as the electrical system demands. You can run a 200-amp unit but if your electrical accessories only pull 40 amps that's all it'll ever put out. What's the voltage when running? There is more diagnosis you should be...

The myth that Engine Masters debunked is that aluminum heads need more compression to make the same power/torque as iron heads which is untrue. Aluminum has much less tendency to have hot spots in the chamber. Heat transfer away from the chamber is too slow to matter but localized heat buildup...

Bullet train in Japan.

Shift kit, deep pan and aux cooler will go a long way towards making a stock 904 last. The one in my Duster is a bit of a mystery, rebuilt with supposedly some upgraded hard parts but the guy I bought it from circa 2010 didn't know much about the details. FWIW I put about 35k miles on it...

I'm excited for 440 day! ...oh wait

Thanks guys, I think I'm going to swap the carb first and go from there. I'll refer back to this thread if I still end up needing to upgrade my fuel system.

I'm pretty sure the "issue" is the carb, it's sensitive to float level and the bowls aren't very big. I've had it since 2016 and since moving from Colorado last year and having to pretty drastically richen it up for the change to sea-level air the fuel system can just barely keep up. I never...

I'd agree but this is mostly a street car and electric pumps that aren't mounted inside the fuel tank are noisy as hell. Ideally I'd run an in-tank pump and bypass the mech pump (and ditch this carb for a Holley DP) but for the time being I just want something I can add into the existing system...

I have a 750 cfm Street Demon carb on the ~450 HP 360 in my '70 Duster with a stock replacement Carter mechanical pump and stock 5/16" fuel line all the way from the tank pickup to the carb. Fuel supply seems marginal for my power level as after a second or 2 at WOT I can see my AFR slightly...

Hughes prides themselves on using "REAL CHRYSLER" fast-ramp cams (high lift for a given duration) which do give more performance but at the cost of valvetrain longevity (mainly springs and lifters). A buddy of mine used one of their hydraulic flat-tappet cams in the SBM in his Ramcharger truck...

Lots of factors involved... You mention running a 340, those tend to have less grunt than 360s. I'm wondering if you're getting into the power enrichment opening the throttle that much when it's in 4th, might be better off downshifting to 3rd when you need any extra acceleration. I know the...

Pile up some JB-Weld on the pan rails and main webs too, "DIY Race Block for cheap!"

I have a Firm Feel Stage 2 PS box in my '70 Duster, it's great but if I did it again I'd go with the Borgeson. Too bad it didn't exist back in 2008, that was one of the first upgrades I did to my car.

According to "Chrysler Engines: 1922-1998" by Willem Weertman, the E85-code police HP engines went through 1975 and had true duals, low-restriction air cleaner, and the Magnum/Super Commando camshaft. If the HP 440 was continued through 1978 like the Hemmings article says (seen it referenced as...