Softened the curve a bit from 1500-2500 . All in by 3k @ 3200.
Played with the VA as well . My idle vacuum is 9” and light cruise 15” . Higher speed max it out around 18” . I have an 8.5 VA can and set it to come in around 10”.
Next up is more carb tuning . Idles in low 13s afr. Cruises in...
This 408 is running ported W2s flowing 297 @ .650 and 1 7/8 TTi headers . I have run my 800 AVS on it and found it had a bit more low end but worse everywhere else .
I could set up a 650 DP for running around town and use the 850 if and when I go to the track I guess .
I sold my Pro Dominator to a member that made me an offer I couldn’t refuse . He was having Jim Laroy build an engine for him . Never heard how it turned out .
That’s good info .
The engine can idle around 750 but I set it at 950 to keep solid rollers happy .
It’s easy enough to change my curve I just haven’t had the time and wanted some feedback before diving into it .
...timing really is a reflection of and determined at high rpm performance. If the engine doesnt perform any better at 34 than 32 why use 34. Unless you are suggesting the engine might want 34-36* at 4000 but 32* at 6500…. Which would be possible with my digital ignition . That would be...
True for many aspects of tuning but wouldn’t wide open throttle at max rpms under load be similar in both cases ? In the car engine bay heat would become a factor but that would call for less timing I would think .
The 408 in my Swinger seems pretty lazy at lower rpms and I am thinking its my timing curve . I had the engine dynoed but that only covers 3000 - 7000 rpms .
The build is as follows
W2 heads ported
246/250 @ .050 / .648 lift on 108 solid roller
W2 Victor intake
9.5:1 compression
850 Pro...
Too technical for me to follow.
Why not just install a switch in the iginition circuit ? Use a flasher switch that matches your year and model . Thats what I used for my electric fuel pump and 3 step burnout rpm limiter.
I have a bunch of spare small block distributors ( would like to acquire some B and RB ) and parts including new reluctors, pickups, various advance plates and rotors , spring kits etc…. I follow your posts and try to learn what Ican .
Nothing wrong . I will solder a distributor plug to the boxes wiring and wanted to get it right the first time without a lot of messing around soldering then resoldwring . (******* spell check !)
thats it I am turning it off ! ….
Is there a way to verify the positive/negative terminals of the reluctor with a multimeter ? I know the wire colors are sometimes mixed up or different.
Cool … maybe I can get up to 8 mpg then . Lol
Is there a specific type of coil I should use ? Can I just unplug the existing Mopar electronic from the distributor and plug the Jacobs in ?
Saw this on CL for $20 and figured it was too cheap to pass up. Plan is to use it for my 78 Dodge Motorhome 440. It did not come with a coil but I have many coils including an Accel Super Coil and a Ford unit that came with an HEI setup I got from Trailbsast .