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Really!?! Had mine gone through in 2020. New valve guides, valves, springs, and hardened exhaust seats for $300. Of course was having the engine done too. Cleaned and painted the block. Cylinders bored .40 over, new pistons, rings, rod and main bearings, cam bearings, stock cam, timing chain and...

Well I guess I haven't updated my photos yet. Well you'll see what I starred with anyway...

I know the feeling. One tip...if you go with a rattle can clear coat I highly recommend Spray Max clear glamor. It's not cheap about $20 a can but is a really good product. I used about 6 cans on the whole0 car. It turned out great only issue was that there was a lot of texture that had to be...

Id like to see how this turns out. I'm having the same issues. Something is intermittently losing contact in the start circuit. Then when I shut off the key it tries to fire. I've checked everything in the run position. It's a bit harder to do the same while starting without another set of eyes...

Yes that is true. I still have a ways to go. Not gonna let the rust take it on my watch. Eventually it will be not as long as I can help it

Another update still holding up after 8 years. Starting to notice some small rust bubbles in my rear wheel arches. I guess I better get on it and see how bad it is. Maybe I can repair it without having to order patch panels....

400 is a bargain. Tyranny shops here are charging 10x that. I don't know if that's for the same type of tyranny but thought I'm in the wrong business.

I am having the same issue. Unfortunately I just finished replacing the lca bushings. Went from poly back to bonded rubber. The poly was a very loose fit on the pivot pin compared to the rubber. That was a very difficult job getting them pressed in. I didn't think to check the k member holes...

Well that didn't work. But I did finally get it with a ball joint press and a 2lb mini maul. It's a little bit short but the press will just barely catch the shoulder of the pin. This is still not going to work. So I took a thick washer from a strut rod and first made the hole large enough to...

Thanks but my bushing is already in the lca. I think I may have a solution.. I'm going to try to use my engine crane as a frame and use my floor jack to push it in.. ill let you know if it works

Been fighting with getting the pin in. Unfortunately bushing already in. Yeah the ball joint press is just a smidgen too short. Been rackin my brain trying to figure out a way. Need something that will slip between the shoulder of the pin and the press. Getting frustrated need a shop press but...

I went with 215/70 r14 Cooper Cobras when I upgraded my wheels and tires from stock. 4 new wheels with sbp and 4 new tires was 800 mounted and balanced. Totally changed the look of the car with those and the rattle can paint job. Turned out pretty good.. Very happy with them.

Sorry I didn't know I had done that my mistake

Thanks I'm already setup like that so this will be a perfect swap. Do you think there will be any issues with the spline count?

Ok so basically in the pictures the casting numbers are shown. One says 904G which makes me question if it's a pushbutton or not. Does anybody know?

Ok let's try again....[FOR SALE] - 64 slant trans "rebuilt"?

I'm hoping this will swap into my 64 dart. I just want to be sure it's the right one. Mopar Mechanical Parts For Sale

Have you tried this? I need to replace mine soon...

I believe the broken kickdown lever and loose front band started the problem. The lock nut on the front band adjuster kept coming loose causing the band to also loosen up.

Ok here's an update. Set kickdown as per instructions and verified shift cable in correct position. Verified bands set. Put pan back fill with new fluid. Started car checked fluid again topped off. Seems to be driving just as it should. No slipping....so far. Will monitor very closely. I...

So do you think the transmission needs to come out for an overhaul? Or is there more that can be done?

Is the measurement the same with the push button setup? Looks like the valve body needs to come out to verify this mesurement.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-install-a-transgo-tf-3-manual-valve-body-kit-in-a-a-904.57/&ved=2ahUKEwjpgvv246DrAhWEKn0KHUZZDKIQFjAHegQIBBAJ&usg=AOvVaw1LLWrZHN8RjDcJaB9VuzxS&cshid=1597618477377

Nevermind the link. I found it.

I'm having trouble finding those instructions. Do you happen to have a link?

Yes it is.

Ok that makes sense about the kickdown. The instructions in the service manual aren't very clear about that or the initial setting of the shift cable. The arm that actuates the manual valve has been welded on the bottom of the shaft it pivots on. Apparently it broke at some point and thats how...

Here you go. Let me know if you need more...l

By picture I figure you want to see the flakes? I have the linkage set where each button bottoms at the detent on the rooster comb with no binding. The kickdown i do have a question about. Is the pressure switch supposed to be engaging the moment the throttle is pressed or is there supposed to...

So question now is do I button it up put some fluid in it and see how it is with the linkage adjusted or do the metal flakes mean it needs an overhaul again? Hoping for the easy one I'm getting too old for this. Especially since I'm working on gravel...