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...to them, as would running less lift than at least what the Edelbrock springs are capable of. As to the 718001 cam; Installed with an Ica of 68* the V/P ratio is predicted to be 126, about the same as a 5.2 Magnum, which is what it's gonna feel like under say 3000.rpm, so, yur gonna need to...

Which Edlebrocks; the open chamber 340 heads; or?

My engine has a 276/286/110 cam and hydraulic lifters, and was initially set-up at 1/4 turn preload. This quickly proved to be inadequate, as soon after break-in it began to tick. I reset the preload to 1/2 a turn. And so it was quiet for a long time. Eventually, I got the idea that if I ran...

8* of stretch is not gonna make it run funny, but the 8* of timing change will!, lol

Nice cam specs, I ran something like that in my 11.3/1 alloy-headed 367, and I absolutely loved it. I was very sad when it dropped lobes.

In my younger days; I would put my big 1/2 drive Johnson-bar on there, put the bar on the frame, and hit the starter. Bam!, the bolt was loose, and the bar was on the ground. Obviously, you can't tighten it that way, but if I could I would. But what I have done is put a bar on the flywheel to...

What pistons are in it? If KB107s, the catalog numbers for skirt clearance and ring-gap factor, IMO are too tight. If you test the turning torque, do it cold AND hot. If the pistons swell up or the rings get to butting, it will only show up on a hot engine. Just So you know; I also have a bored...

...the piston is at the top, then it is coming up. So, wth stroke is it on at what time? Looking at the factory 318 cam specs, with the cam installed 4* advanced, the intake should be opening at about 12* before TDC and closing 48* After Bottom dead center...

You may be thinking in terms of just one problem; whereas I'm thinking in terms of any combination of problems. In my experience, with a 318, there is easily room in the P/V clearance for the cam-chain to jump several teeth, and, the 318engine will keep running with retarded cam-timing...

If it did it once, it will do it again until you figure out why and fix it, so yeah, yur in for some wrenching; and yes, the logs gotta come off.

Not snarky. If a cylinder has a leaking exhaust valve, then; On the intake stroke, with the carb at idle, that cylinder may find it easier to pull air in from the exhaust manifold, than from the plenum. So it idles rough cuz that cylinder does not have a combustible mixture in it. If you whack...

You said that you had a stuck valve. now you say it's not stuck. How did you diagnose this? a cylinder balance test? a Compression test? a Leak-down test? The sound the pistons make when they hit the hung-open valve? The 12.5% powerloss? Maybe it's time to back up the us and start over? Edit...

Ok then, for those that might want to know, from my 1969 service manual, (sorry, I don't have a 70 Manual) the piston/rings spec are; Skirts; half to one and a half thou, which is .0005>.0015 Ring gaps; compression @.010>.020 , and oil scrapers @ .015>.055 .. Who on FABO, has successfully run...

...could find. However, in the event that your 71 heads have 60cc chambers; this will increase your Dcr to 9.14, the Dcr to 8.1 and with the stock 48*Ica, the Pressure jumps to 166 at sealevel. This will require Premium gas, for WOT operation; but the reward is excellent power. I would still do...

...---------------------------- The timing curve was worked out years ago for my alloy-headed 367, and is 14 initial/going to 28@2800/going to 34*@3400; with 22* in the VA. This allows me to run 87E10, full-time, @185psi cylinder pressure........ and more Therefore TOTAL Cruise-Timing was and...

I'd like to see a before and after, power run, to see the zero to 60 ET difference from no other changes than the 4bbl, including; shifting at the same rpm.

...ring gaps, the engine idled down to 550 in gear and pulling itself with a starter gear of 9.44 (manual trans), and with a 292/292/108 cam, and @5* ignition advance ....... with no temperature increase whatsoever. Whereas in the earlier configuration, there was no way it would run on that...

Waterloo is at 1000 ft elevation according to Wiki. That cam, in at 108, has an Ica of 59*. To make an average pressure of 141psi, your compression ratio is estimated to be about 8.85 to 1. Those are facts, Here are my opinions, and I'm sortof thinking it out as I go. > This makes your bottom...

Have you already got a 360?

Yeah, we're not running out anytime soon. I keep a supply for like two or three months. My wife uses paper like she owns the whole daymn forest.

Yeah so that makes me wonder which one was the lie, or the deception as the case may be.

In about 71/72, I weighed my 70 Swinger 340/4speed at the track, with me in it, it was 3330. I was 140. so 3190 to the Dart with a lil less than half a tank of gas, and the steel slapper bars. She had P/S, PDB, no radio but did have an 8-track and 4 speakers. Yes the jack was still in the...

I had a low-mileage one in 78, and I concur; there was nothing turdy about the 74 Dart Sport 360/4-speed/3.55s. I think tho, that they were lighter than they looked. I sold that car in 80 right after my first baby was born, used the money to buy a 76 Volare station Wagon. 318 with air conditioning.

The 74 360 4bbl was rated nearly Identical to the 73 340. except of course the 360 torque-peaked earlier. Those two engines had all the same parts bolted on to them, making the only significant differences, being their strokes. Furthermore, the only significant differences of the Net engines...

Yur kidding right! The 74-360 is NET the 273 is gross

please forgive me but I nearly pissed myself laughing when I saw the pic. what brand are those?

...itself on flat/level/hard ground; with any cam up to a 292/292/108, the biggest that I have tried. The only tricks I will use are idle-timing of 5*, and a couple of tiny holes in the primary throttles. Plus If the piston ring-gaps are too tight, I will change that. If the engine consistently...

Um no, the pushrod length has nothing to do with the nuts backing off. The only thing that can cause the nuts to back off is that they, the adjusters, or even the arms, are no good. But the thing that causes ticking on rockers in the which the nuts are NOT backing off, is another matter. You...

Dear Dan; this thread has officially gone to the dogs, without any real good information whatsoever. Everybody has an opinion with no real consensus, and they all want to spend your life's savings. Your question was simple, but the thread has ended in a complicated chitfight. The truth is...