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Yeah, you could just buy a ‘74 and change the bodywork over for less than the difference in price for a rust free ‘71… :rofl:

And the sway bars run through the K for dramatically improved ground clearance to the bar. And the bar doesn’t get in the way of tires wider than 235.

lol, but the ride quality and handling still suck! Seriously, KYB’s are terrible. I ran them for years, swapped them out, and wondered why I kept them on my car for even one hot second. If you haven’t run real shocks, you can’t possibly know what you’re missing. I’d run Monroe’s or Gabriel’s...

If the car didn’t get a vinyl roof then the roof gutters could have been painted body color in the absence of a trim package that would have gotten the chrome trim. The “golden fawn” color is absolutely original paint, and the roof gutters on my ‘74 Duster don’t have chrome trim and it does...

I used the Summit racing 2.5” header back kit on my Duster with Doug’s headers. I swapped out the mufflers but I didn’t have any issues with the kit, the tail pipes were a little long but that was easy to fix and once that was done the tail pipes were fine. I swapped out a couple of the included...

Easy, it doesn’t. You can’t use the same bushing for the early and late style strut rods. @autoxcuda covered a fix by cutting down the poly bushings to fit properly on an early car Cutting strut rod bushings for correct geometry? But really the poly bushings at the strut rod location aren’t...

Exactly! I run a 68-70 B-body rear axle in my Duster. You do have to move the spring perches, and anyone that tells you otherwise is a shade tree hack. The good news is, if you're moving the perches, get a DoctorDiff 1/2" spring offset kit and move them to 42" C-C and get some more room for...

@CPDave has it right, KYB's are hot garbage. I've run Monroe's, I've run KYB's, I've run RCD Bilsteins and I've run the Hotchkis Fox's on one or another of my Mopars. The KYB's are the the worst of the lot, you can't make a legitimate comparison on performance or ride quality to the Bilstein or...

So I ran my Duster for awhile with +8° caster, -1° camber and that was with 16:1 manual steering. So, with power steering I don’t think the car would be difficult to steer, I managed it with fast ratio manual. That said, the amount of body lift you get by turning the wheels is pretty...

Interesting! Is the lever arm itself rusted to the LCA? Because the levers don’t usually contact the LCA’s. I’d suspect the socket is rusted to the LCA where the socket is supported by the LCA halves. Especially since that part doesn’t move with the adjusting bolt set, so if it hasn’t been...

Because he bought two bushings, one fit and one didn’t. So they have quality control issues. Maybe you get lucky and both fit, but I think it’s more likely you’d get two that don’t fit vs two that do fit. They’re still junk. It’s like guys thinking it’s ok to run 30+ year old tires. You wanna...

Proforged is what you need to buy. This road has been traveled before, the list of manufacturers that work has already been made by another member here, @RealWing . I don’t see Mevotech on the list, that part is probably a new offering for them. LCA pin loose in bushing NOS bushings are a...

The whole “survivor” label is misleading. If it hasn’t been started in 20+ years it’s not a survivor. It died over 20 years ago. That’s a 1 owner project car that needs everything rebuilt. It’s a cool car, but on a non-running car the low mileage isn’t as significant. It’s like selling a NOS...

Wrong product for the job. It’s for slip fit assemblies- assemblies that were intended to be a slip fit. It is NOT for turning an assembly that was designed to be a press fit that has a lousy tolerance and is in reality barely a slip fit, back into a press fit. That Loctite is intended to...

Sounds to me like you need to make sure that the LCA pivot and bushing are in good condition. If the pivot tube has broken loose in the K then the LCA can move around, so the torsion bar would slide out but the force from installing the torsion bar could push the LCA out of alignment, causing...

I’m with @67Dart273 on this, something has to be bent or out of whack. I’ve had the K out of several of my cars and have never had an issue with the K frame alignment. There’s obviously some tolerance there, but the tolerance on the suspension points of these cars is like a 1/4” so that much can...

Oh I agree, that stuff isn't intended to change the class of fit for two parts, like changing something from a loose slip fit back to the intended press fit. Like I said, good stuff when used as intended but not the right solution for this issue. This falls under "get parts that fit" for me.

Nice work! So you sectioned out the whole inner part of the door where the different brackets are located?

IMHO that’s too loose to “fix” it with loctite compounds. Check the tech specs if that’s how you want to proceed, they typically say how large a tolerance those compounds are meant to take care of. There are a lot of really impressive compounds out there, but they can be very specific to their...

Just because that's what moog sent doesn't make it right. Moog is a hot mess and has been for at least a decade now, getting worse all the time. I think nowadays you're more likely to get a part from Moog that doesn't fit than actually get something that fits properly. The end links that...

It really doesn't look like they sent the right stuff. The goal is to have the sway bar arms parallel to the ground when the car is at ride height. They don't have to be perfect, but the closer the sway bar arms are to parallel the more efficient the bar will be. A small difference isn't a big...

Even with a fast ratio steering box and 275’s up front I really didn’t notice a big increase in steering effort just from the caster itself until I went past +7°. Obviously it still makes some difference below that, but if you compared the difference in effort between say +2° and +4° it really...

The skosh chart specs are basically for manual steering, you can easily add several degrees to all the categories with power steering. I run quite a bit more even with manual steering. I have 16:1 manual steering in my Duster, with 275/35/18's up front, and I still run +6.5°'s of caster. With...

The 10” wheels generally have a better selection of wheels in the right backspace but I really think you need a 1/2” spring offset to make it work. I fit 275’s on my Duster with 17x9’s but they were super tight, on 10’s you’d have to trim and roll the quarters for sure and it would still be...

Are the end links more like a bolt with a sleeve? A lot of the aftermarket kits will have a long bolt for the end link with a sleeve, the intent is you cut the sleeve down to the length you need, then cut the extra threads off of the bolt. Depends on the kit, some come with multiple length...

Probably the sway bar end links, but yeah a picture and year/model would be super helpful

There really aren’t any “Mopar specific” wheels in anything close to those sizes, just aftermarket wheels with generic center bores. As far as hubs, you won’t do much better for the factory spindles. The DoctorDiff aluminum hubs are basically copies of factory BBP hubs minus the rotors. Baer...

So it looks like those Konigs have different hub bores depending on the width of the wheel. The 73.1mm bore will fir over the Mopar hub, but it depends on how thick the wheel is at the mount and how much the hub bore tapers to the wheel cap. The 71.5mm size will need to be opened up. It’s hard...

All the info you need is here... How to ID a Small Block Engine Block: But that's a 1971 318, regular fuel, from the Mound Road plant.

Using something like Slick 50 is good for diagnosing the issue, you spray one joint at a time until you find what’s squeaking. But once you’ve figured out what’s making the noise you either need to use the proper grease, or replace the worn out part. A rubber bushing shouldn’t need any...