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i... i... i don't hate it? i mean, in context of cheese dick 70's car style it's perfectly apropos. i am also a sucker for flat lavender.

73~76 dart/duster/valiant for the lower ball joints. drop lines, depends on the caliper (different attachments) and if you have the caliper mounted to the front or rear (general consensus is to mount to the rear). usually you can just order stock hoses from a F/M/J body car...

or a bearing about to give its final performance...

yes. spindle, caliper bracket, caliper, rotor, dust shield all swap over. you'll need the correct drop lines to connect your hard line to the new caliper. new lower ball joints and the bolts. on the arms you can get the adapter sleeves to run the small joints if your stuff is in good...

at over 100 i'd say that's not half bad. are you just planning for the future?

what's your budget like and how far are you willing to travel?

a 70~72 duster would have small bolt pattern kelsey hayes disc brakes, the 73~76 would have the same single piston big bolt pattern brakes as a dart. that is if they are factory equipped cars. anything can happen in 50+ years, so always verify.

welcome back and glad to hear you're doing well! let us know when you're back up and running, and put me down for a harness when they're ready.

the triangular lower control arm bumper? they rot and fall off occasionally. or people take them off. they are important and should be in place.

yes, the two big bolts hold the ball joint on. they're 15/16" i find popping it from the arm with the spindle easier. but if you're already past that, leave the arm in the car and attack it from there because it's held firmly in place.

$35 plus shipping. pics make the pan look a lot worse than it is. the paint is just beat up.

please limit the embarrassing photos to like, three. pre, race trim there (still all blue and has the bumper!) but so fast my duct tape numbers came off!

that's your lower ball joint. and yeah, that looks wasted from here. pro tip: take off the rotor and make your life easier, if not lighter at least.

it'll get easier. now chop chop sizzle chest! you're behind book time!

i would *strongly* advise you to get a hold of a factory service manual and review it. besides the diagrams and working practices it also has the torque specs for reassembly. cruise on over to mymopar.com and download one for what you're working on. points of interest: >unload the torsion...

considering this is your first time doing this, and you don't have the proper tools? that seems about right. if it's your first go around, R&R'ing a set of UCA's is a solid day long job.

*sad trombone* that's the way of the (mopar) world sometimes. also, if the LBJ is that roached, chances are your lower control arm bushings are waxed *** too. along with everything else. are you in for a full front end rebuild? *shakes magic 8 ball* "you may rely on it"

yes. pop it back in. leave the ball joint castle nut a few threads on and crack it off the spindle. support the lower control arm so it doesn't go flopping all over the place when you take off the nut and pull the upper arm away. namely, watch you don't stretch and bust a brake line. if you...

sounds like a solid deal!

is the ball joint still connected to the spindle? if so you're gonna have a hell of a time chasing that around trying to get it to pop loose.

F/S: OE gas tank, comes with some padding. great strap! needs work. you don't see these any more and they are getting harder to find. $500 FIRM. will consider trades for pit bull puppies-- blues only!! all kidding aside, that's odd for it to rust out on top. any collateral damage?

650 is fine. ship it!

nah i missed it. but a tank? pfft! tis but a flesh wound! but hell yeah, let's make it happen. takes a village and all that.

+2 more highly highly-ies

off the top of my head i think that SSBC might be the only folks who make a SBP kit that fits 14" wheels https://ssbc-usa.com/products/a153 in the notes they have a caveat: will work with some 14" and most 15" wheels, but they provide a spec chart. if your rallye wheels are original it's...

from the photos that's a lovely looking car with tons of potential and way, way too nice to part out. if you're in over your head on the motor, sell the whole thing to somebody else and search out something that's more in tune with your skills, budget or the amount of work you want to take on.

oh, foot notes are required. as is standards for font and margins. i provide a style guide for the papers in my syllabus at the beginning of the semester. didn't you get the email?

d i require a 1200 word essay on what exactly you don't like about it and why it's not a good match. please cite any sources in the bibliography and index. assignments are due thursday at 10am and i will deduct points for assignments handed in late.

the spax were a smoking deal back in the day-- and that was also real money then! ;) but yeah, the middleages of either coughing up for koni's or modifying QA1's from the roundy-round catalog... so glad that's behind us. one of my set ups was gabriel's from a bronco 2 out back with koni reds...

to which i'll ask how many truly need more than 400hp? it's about want. it's about a desired outcome. it's also a function of: i need to upgrade this, what are you running? oh, that sounds trick and i can just order it off the web! but i 1000% agree, it is most definitely not one size fits...