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used OE brake pushrod w/ special bolt and nut. genuine mopar, cleaned and inspected. 6" center to end, 6.5" OAL $15 + shipping

used OEM 12pt strut rod nuts. these are for the earlier cars. $15 + shipping

PM sent

used 67~68 bolt on OE timing tab. cleaned and inspected, great shape. $25 plus shipping

lifter problems probably been there all along just in a market where most families owned 16 or 32 64 flat tappet lifters the chances of hearing about a bad one were lower these days many families have no flat tappet lifters the audience for a new flat tappet lifter is very small...

OEM distributor hold down with bolt. Original mopar not re-popped offshore junk. cleaned and inspected. $15.00 each plus shipping

all the tasty bits from under the timing cover: used OEM pump eccentric & bolt/washer, thrust plate, bolts, chain drip tab, oil slinger and fuel pump bolts. all parts are factory original, no offshore junk, no hardware store bs. cleaned and inspected, ready to go. eccentric shows a visual wear...

used OEM intermediate shaft, cleaned and inspected, excellent condition. $30 + shipping

Welcome aboard! glad to have you. I found a dash for sale on here in really good condition. Like said they are a little work to install. Unfortunately, Its cracked already!! its been in the car for about 4 years this past winter we had a really really cold snap i went out to start the car and...

Morning........................

The sweatshop is open early this morning. Getting the first orders ready to go. @DartManPlum340 @Lance Lot Link :thumbsup:

following...

Did the Ramchargers actually build a Plymouth???

foot actuated dimmer switch on the floor Windows with cranks

Since you have been fiddling with the VR and then it runs for a while, then dies - the VR grounds through the bolts that hold it in place. If you move it around it may restore the ground for a bit, then fails. Take the VR off and make bare metal contact between the back of the VR around the...

Post 7 first picture looks like the connection to the factory distributor. Take a picture into the end of the plug and post it

A pair of tail light lenses that fit and work cost around $100. I would suggest that you try Van's Auto Parts - same lenses for a bit better price. The pattern in the available lenses are a bit different than a Scamp - they are repops of 1970 Dart lenses. No one repops the Scamp lenses.

The dash is padded vinyl from the factory and can be replaced, but it is a LOT of work. Doing the carpet cover is easy peasy. They look nice IMHO. The tail light suppliers above are a good start. @Mexican Spec also makes a lot of new ones, perhaps he will chime in here. Do you want the...

Installed but never run. Bought in December of 2023 from Summit Racing. Two small imperfections on the pressure plate face. It was like that when I got it from summit. This is for the small register pre ‘68 crank, but it could be machined for the later crank. Includes mcleod pressure plate...

24 pole

TF: Kalitta FC: Prock PS: Anderson PSM: Herrera

Extra resistance might make the module 'happier' but it also reduces coil current & voltage; could result in weak spark or no spark.

I would find another flex plate to compare with, it might be bent, flexed once too often......

...piston slap. Wrist pin noise [ worn pin &/or pin bore ] gives a double tap. As long as the rest of the ign curve is altered to suit, running 20* initial is a good idea. Engine will run cooler, use less fuel & have better tip in response. The GM LS engines have a very good combustion...

Maybe the dist giving the problem did not have the correct air gap for the reluctor, 0.006-8".

...known only to Chrys, they did not use man vac adv [ MVA ], instead used the useless PVA. GM used MVA. My 1966 showroom stock Pontiac idled @ 26*: 6* init + 20* MVA; with a very mild cam & 10.75:1. [ Chevs used about 24* ] With more cam & lower CR, vac is reduced & even more timing is needed...

The outer two on the 3 prong are for reverse lights, and the center pin is the NSS. You don't HAVE to use the two reverse ones if your present one (which is on the shifter) works.

Most engines with decent compression don't. But them low compression jobbies need all the help they can get.

First- what are your alignment specs? It matters a bunch for steering feel and play. Second- all worm and ball steering boxes, ALL of them, have an on center dead spot. It is literally part of the construction of the box. Doesn’t matter if it’s Mopar, or Borgeson, PST or Flaming River. Doesn’t...

You need to define "play." And who knows, --who did the work?-- Maybe "somebody forgot to tighten the steering box. So define the play. And then do some troubleshooting. Get someone to help, gently move the wheel, and experiment with how much. Maybe 2", maybe 4" at the top of the...