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okay, thanks for your advice.

I just checked it, TDC is good. I was thinking the same as you. I stopped worrying about the numbers on this engine, only using them for reference. I set initial to max RPM, and max vacuum, then back it off to where it doesn't kick back. I find my overall by driving up an incline in first gear...

stock cam for the magnum 360.

My next step was to use manifold vacuum to give the engine what it wants. The bottom end is stock 5.9 magnum, with advertised 9:1 compression. Not sure what seat to seat timing is.

it wants more than 22 degrees at idle, more like 26 or 28. I have run as high as 40 degrees total with no pinging. I do agree on the curve needing slowed down, I can add stiffer springs. Carb is an Edelbrock AVS, heavier springs is the only change from stock.

In at 2600, EQ heads with 2.02 valves installed.

No vacuum advance, 22 degrees initial. 36 all in.

93 octane no additives, NGK heat range 5, for a 5.9 magnum.

It is new, with less than 20miles on it. I too thought it may be lean, but like I said I am not sure.

I have been tuning this thing of and on this weekend, all 8 plugs look like this. I am not an expert on reading plugs, I was hoping someone could give a clue from looking at this.

Unplug the headlight switch, it may be the problem.

I was thinking the same.

sounds like too much total timing.

If you set full mechanical advance to between 32 and 36 degrees at around, or above 3,00 rpm. After setting this, your initial timing will probably fall in the 8 to 12 degrees advanced range. To do this you will need to unhook, and plug the vacuum advance line. Doing this will establish a good...

What is your initial timing? Sometimes if the initial is too high, when the vacuum comes in it will ping. I had the same problem, and had to lower the initial timing. I know all set ups are different, but I run 12deg. initial, 34 deg. total, and all in with vacuum advance is around 45 deg.

I have been running the standard grey box for years, but lately during hard acceleration my ignition cuts out. I think it may be the ignition box, just don't want to but a cheap one and have the same results.

If not this box, then which box is a good performance upgrade?

yes, that is what I mean

I trying to find a good replacement for the Mopar performance orange box.

Has anyone had any luck with Manini's orange box. I know it has a real resistor, and a Chrysler part #.

What about this one from Classic Industries.

I have had one of those Select boxes from Advanced Auto for years, works fine.

Recently purchased this unit from Jegs, it lasted about 50 miles before it gave up. It did seem to run better when it did work.

has anyone tried the Jegs orange or blue control modules?

I had the same issues with my temp gauge, I could never get it to work. I checked all grounds, heated sensor outside of car, replaced voltage limiter, it all tested good, still gauge did not work. I gave up on it, and just drove the car wit no temp. gauge. Eventually, it started working on its...

That looks like a condenser to prevent interference to radio signals, they would usually be bolted to the coil.

that may be for the relay to plug into.

I found the problem!! I had a loose wire in the connector from the ignition that supplies power to the fuse box. Everything works fine now. Thank you very much for your time and patience.