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The OEM has had machines for over a 100-years built specifically for machining blocks at a fast rate. When you make a million of them a year you can afford to have custom built machines that get it on. Henry Ford had an Ingersoll milling machine in 1912 that could machine multiple blocks at a...

Or just buy your own shop press. One good enough for a home shop won't cost that much. I think mine's a 10 ton, have had it for several decades, only use it once every couple of years, but it has paid for itself several times over.

With the manual valve body you can start your burnout in 2nd gear which will keep you away from the sprag and give you a higher rpm at the tires without over revving the motor.

Here is the upper rod

It’s hard to say for sure it feels like there is resistance all through the travel of the lever

I don't see doing this the hard way Charrlie. Judging from what the converter looks like, it's been used. How hard and for how long I don't want to even guess. However, again if it was me, while having the pilot changed, I'd get the converter shop to rebuild it, be it stock stall, or...

:lol: :lol:

The old flip tops where never known for their sealing abilities.

Looking for any and all of the following parts to convert the front of my 73 dart into the earlier style from 70-72. Located in So Cal. Hood Fenders Headlight extenders Grill Bumper w/ brackets Hood latch support Front valance

PM.d

I just sold a set of 9" brake hubs, conveeted to 4.5" bolt pattern. Unfortunately I deleted the picture I took for the ad, so I can't post it. There's plenty of metal on the front hubs to convert. I had them CNC machined to the 4.5" bolt pattern in between the existing holes, with a larger...

I assume all new parts? Just remind the machine shop to install the bearing retainer before pressing the bearing on!

I don't remember ever seeing anything on mine from the factory. I'm assuming the later years the vent was part of the evap charcoal system. But mine had never worked since I owned the car it's always puked gas out of the filler

The catwhiskers have to come out, and the U-channel weatherstrip at the top of the door frame has to come out too, to allow the divider to move forward. Also, your car is a sedan, not a hardtop. :lol:

That divider between the door glass and fixed vent glass has to come loose. It has a screw up top usually under the weatherstrip, and a bolt down below. Once the vent assembly is loose, tip the top of the divider toward the front and the bottom of the divider toward the rear. This will allow the...

Thanks for the information. What would be different with manual valve body?

The factory didn't give us a check valve. Mine was plugged with mud from Daubers.

Do you have a link of where I could get a new one?

1963 Plymouth Other

how would I go about that procedure and what do you use to grease it?

Tom

I’ve lifted small blocks with plates but I like to use one of these now. For one, it’s easy to change the angle with the hand crank. JEGS 80048: Engine Load Leveler [1,250 lb.] - JEGS $40

That's pretty much the definition of over the counter. It didn't come from the factory on a vehicle.

I’m leaning towards the idea that the “SA” is an “over the counter replacement”. I have six 1969 carbs stamped “SA” and the build dates (years) are all over the place plus I have a few 1968 carbs with just an “S” that were stamped with an “8” indicating that they were built in 1968.

heat, lube, pressure and angle of attack. just like a hot saturday night. BFH, judiciously applied percussion, mix in some patience and add tenacity.

Yes because of the rain everything here is a month behind

Had to google "swiss chalet" thought I was gonna get an awesome recipe. lol

Im assuming the end of the rubber hose would need some sort of check valve?

Hope not CF. First cut wont be long here. Been really odd spring but things are looking good.

And yes, remove the heat riser in the passenger exhaust manifold. We take the butterfly and shaft out, then weld the 2 steel sleeves shut to block the holes. Now the exhaust will free flow out through the exhaust system, and there will be no hot gasses trying to push across the intake manifold...