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None of the short (E body) or long (B body) pistol grips I've seen were that "straight." If you search something like 70 Cuda pistol grip you'll see what I mean.

AND NOW yet another ANNOYING STORY from the old days In the summer / fall of 67, before I joined the Navy in the spring of 68, I had a high school "friend" who burned my *** BAD. And soon after that we weren't friends, anymore He had a job throwing gas at a local station. He...

I don't know how that line is supposed to be secured on a fish, but that is EXACTLY how it is configured, with a "U" up high near the top of the fender. And ending down into the frame rail is EXACTLY how it ends If it is dripping fuel, it is VERY simple---your tank is too full. The...

Pull the coil high tension wire and ground it to kill the spark. See if it cranks. If so, it's not compression, battery, cables, or the starter. Its way too much timing advance If it still does not crank it could be most any of the above. Start by looking for hot spots in the cables...

Found this thread. OldManMopar is the MAN https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/proportioning-valve-question-for-disc-brake-conversion.518464/

I keep trying to tell you guys NOT to do {rely} on this. Now, don't get me wrong, you may be right in this case. But PLEASE do not try and use continuity and ohm readings on high current circuits. "The usual" is, that it is way worse than continuity might suggest. In other words you...

Here's my advice. You need the proper documentation for these brakes. If you are using the 73/ later factory brakes, then go to MyMopar and download the 73 service manuals, and they are free Here is the combo valve pictorial, from page 5-19

LOL, no idea. That was posted 10 years ago

Both you have spoken about is NOT factory. There is no possible way for us to know what they are 4. Best thing I think is to remove them and then if something does not work troubleshoot it to figure out why, and if necessary, rewire as needed. And here it comes so, hang TF ON...

1...Drain. Start with a 12V test lamp. Disconnect battery ground, and put the lamp between battery post and ground. Does it light? Check everything imaginable. Is lighter pulled out, glove box lamp out, trunk light? Then move to your multimeter, put that in series on the high amps...

I would discourage you from doing that, rather, fix or upgrade the actual brakes. If the brakes are larger than 9" perhaps the lining is glazed or poorly fitted, etc. By going to larger brakes or front disks, you get way more than just power brakes. My legs are not that strong. When my...

I sort of disagree. My original 273 Dart when I bought it fit that. After scoring better T bars (used), new, better shocks and radials, replacing all the worn parts AND ADDING a factory anti sway bar, and then rebuilding the rear leafs, that was a COMPLETELY different car NONE...

The WORST thing about Marf*ckPharce is the above, plus they never want to give their phone no. I AM SORRY I am DONE with wild goose chases. If I am coming to your place or to meet you I WANT A PHONE contact so I can find out why you ain't there The OTHER (aside from the liberal...

That or a bad connection. Known problems: The instrument cluster harness connector pins get loose, you must solder them to the board traces. Gauge studs/ nuts get corroded, loosen/ tighten the nuts a few times. The IVR can be bad OR THE IVR connector fingers can lose contact with...

Don't they know what they put in there?

All of these girls have two flashers, "somewhere." One is for turn signals, the other is for the hazard flashers

Not very accurately. You can apply a single 1 1 /2V cell to them, and I'll have to look up the expected deflection. But you have some preventive work to do. Can you solder? Clean and inspect around the connector pins. Scrape around the base of the pins, scare up some ELECTRONIC...

Put a meter on the battery and find out. If it is infrequent, wire into something easy, like pulling the wire off the lighter, etc. Could be bad connection, bad VR, bad VR grounding, etc, could be a few things. FIRST thing to do is find out if the charging/ running voltage is stable...

I believe those are the ones that go in like a pistol cartridge. I don't remember the number. 312? 327? These are what they look like, but 327 are 28V EDIT May be no. 330 https://www.jkllamps.com/327 Did you look in your service manual? There are fuse and bulb charts right before the...

So what you are saying is, you had the BLU and BRN reversed at the connector? That starts to explain some of the things you said, maybe. But with the Blue/BRN jumpered, they amount to the same point. So it should not have hurt anything. The check points are: Power at the IGN...

You really need to stop trying to troubleshoot using continuity, at least most of the time. Shooting for power, when there is lack of, is MUCH safer for the test equipment, and avoids somewhat leading you down the wrong road. This is in part, due to things like current causing poor...

I may be misunderstanding your question, or you didn't comprehend my earlier posts. Dark blu, IGN1, "ignition run" is hot ONLY in run and IS the source of the underhood power (depending on year/ model) for ignition, alternator field, voltage regulator, electric choke if used, and...

A little late for suggestions/ lectures, but this is EXACTLY why you attach the neg/ ground cable LAST What you describe makes no sense, unless it burned the post/ clamp connection. suggestion above is good. I often use a test lamp instead of a multimeter, as it is quicker and more...

The outer two on the 3 prong are for reverse lights, and the center pin is the NSS. You don't HAVE to use the two reverse ones if your present one (which is on the shifter) works.

You need to define "play." And who knows, --who did the work?-- Maybe "somebody forgot to tighten the steering box. So define the play. And then do some troubleshooting. Get someone to help, gently move the wheel, and experiment with how much. Maybe 2", maybe 4" at the top of the...

No Park is (console) all the way forward, (column) all the way "up." Or are you talking about the transmission lever? I don't remember LOL You can check by finding if it's in park

Isn't there some sort of recovery, like them sending something to your email? I have not been on there in months, but I am also a member

Thanks for the update. Having a few spare parts is always handy

The VR has nothing to do with whether the engine will crank or start. You DO? have the isolated field alternator? should have two field terminals?

Do you have a newer transmission than (I forget, ) 69? The older autos must have the SINGLE pin neutral switch, the newer ones 3 pin. The center pin has a wire that runs up and grounds the starter relay in park/ neutral Could be wrong neutral switch, shifter/ linkage not correctly...