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Correct, PLUS the bevel in the wheel and on the 5 individual lug nuts locks the nuts in place. If I am not mistaken, the single large nut they use in the center has a flat contact surface. So they need to be directional in order not to back off.

IMO, the 79 Super Six is the best to build. Cast crank engine, but still solid lifters. The cast crank will take whatever you can throw at it and is much lighter than the forged crank. That'd be my choice. In fact, I'm lookin for one. lol

I respectfully bow out of this one. Good luck!

All those Teslas suck. So what I wanna know is, what's his business a front for?

Unscrew the cable from the speedometer. Slide the inner cable out. Clean it good and allow it to dry completely. Then lubricate it liberally with graphite and reinstall it.

What do the pistons measure?

That's great! I'm glad you got it sorted out.

You won't notice any difference changing from one brand to another, as long as the heat range is the same. If you run a compression test, you can get a good idea of what plug heat range you should run. Sounds like you should be running whatever plug is correct for the 68-71 340.

Sorta. The higher the compression, the colder the plug, as a general rule. in other words, you don't want a plug that puts a lot of heat into the cylinder head (and combustion chamber) on a high compression engine, like a hot plug would tend to do. Saying the a cold plug is better for a...

In the heater box, just where I told you on Facebook. That's where they all are. Whether the wiring goes straight from the blower or the switch. Glad you found it.

Normally stock heat ranges for passenger car and light truck engines are 14 and 12. For performance 11 and 9.

Not a thing wrong with Champions. Although I have read where they did make a bad run of plugs fairly recently. Other than that, the brand doesn't amount to anything. Any company can have a run of defective parts. I've had good service from Champions.

Screw um. Cut a hole in the hood and run a tunnel ram and two 660s.

That's a pretty good description. lol

Nice score, Doc!

This ^^^^^^

Swap the springs side to side. That'll tell you real quick.

It's beginning to appear the ignition switch may be bad. Sometimes they can lose one side or the other. It's going to require a GOOD factory wiring diagram and some work with a volt ohmmeter.

Dale, this is as false as it gets. Modern converters do not "slip" as you describe. You can have a converter flash to 5000 RPM and yet idle around like a stock converter on the street, until you do a launch. Then and only then does it flash to its given flash stall. Your thinking is correct...

The fact is, Harbor Freight has stepped up its game with better products in the past ten or so years. You can find some pretty good stuff there. I recently bought an electric (I know) pressure washer there. The one I got is normally 249 bucks. With my Harbor Freight money coupons and my inside...

BadASS! I love those things!

They very likely do not. Mopar rarely has correct instructions on anything in the aftermarket. It's either slap wrong or missing details.

There are no ignorant questions. What is your bleeding procedure? Should be RR, LR, RF, LF. I use a glass jar with a piece of vacuum hose stuck on the bleeder valve. I put about 1/4 of a jar of brake fluid in the bottom. Put the end of the hose in the jar and make sure it's submerged in brake...

He must connect IGN1 and IGN2 together and route that to the hot for the MSD. IGN1 is "Run" and IGN2 is "12V when starting. Both must be connected together when using an ignition like the MSD that eliminates the ballast. Sounds like all he has is IGN2 hooked up. It goes dead when you release the...

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder?

I have one of their purple guns. Have yet to use it, but they have great reviews. I talked to Southern Polyurethane about it and he was familiar with it. Said it would work well for paint but that it was really better for a primer gun, but he had nothing bad to say about it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luk-05-029/make/dodge/model/dart/submodel/demon-340/year/1971

Well, sorta. While it is true that compression dropped, it's also true that horse power ratings changed from gross to net. So that makes it appear that engines lost a ton of power from 72 onward, when in fact, they did not. That'a always a part of the equation people sometimes forget. With all...

The good news is they found something. Hopefully they got it all fixed up. Prayers for you my friend.

I'll argue with anyone who thinks there's only one way to do something. That does people more harm than good.