Search results for query: *

Why used? 1971 DODGE DART 3.7L 225cid L6 Speedometer Cable | RockAuto

Cast crank slant six uses a different block, rods and crank than the forged crank slants. The rod and main journal are narrower. If using the 2.2 pistons make sure they are compatible with whatever rod you use. Not only on the pin location/rod length, but on whether the pistons are for floating...

NHRA sucks. I stopped racing in "stock" back in the '80's due to their BS.

Fatsco knows what they are doing. I delt with them for many years. Seals do not need to be broken in. That said, when installing the seal they should always have the "lip" lubricated with the same fluid that will be sealing. Otherwise the seal can "burn" up from a dry start. PS: When I lived in...

Does happen once in awhile. Are the calipers installed with the breeder screws at the top? If not, never get the air out.

Not recently, but I have had several converters repaired with a new pump drive. Used to have a problem (years ago) with the drive slot developing a crack.

In funny car you have to run a "as manufactured" manifold? Those are not stock eliminator cars

Possible torque converter drain back (from sitting) raised the fluid level enough to leak out passed the seal. Once the trans was out of park with the engine running, the converter refilled and the level in the pan went back to a level that did not leak. PS: just an FYI. The 1965 cable shifted...

Just an FYI. Back when OEM electric fans first came out. There were several car models, that had a fan on temp setpoint of 230-240 degrees, and would turn off about 210

All factory slant six pistons will be the same CR. There are some different aftermarket piston configurations within the "stock" description. Some have a slightly lower compression distance. There are also aftermarket "export" low compression pistons. Be careful you don't get these. For what you...

Listed on rockauto for 66 Dart More Information for CENTRIC 12363044 More Information for FVP 12363044

Not sure of the year of the change, but the early ones the seal is R&R from the back. Cover must be removed to change the seal. The later covers don't have to be removed to R&R the seal, it is done from the front.

Do you know the application? EI year model?

If I recall correctly, the 66 Has a timing tab bolted to the lower driver side cover bolt. I don't remember if the 70 is bolted or welded. he timing marks on the damper correspond to the tab. The 66 bolt on tab can be put on the later cover and just disregard any other tabs on the cover...

I have a friend in Il, that I might be seeing this summer. What kind of price are you looking for?

Looking for a driver quality shield (The valance between the two front fenders, below the bumper) for a 64, or 65 valiant/Barracuda. Part number in the 1965 parts book is 2525 867 or 2525 872. Item number 7-26-15 in the cooling section. Prefer in person pickup. Not in a huge rush. I am in...

The 65 trans is a cable shift trans, but not for push button (for column or floor shift). However the 65 trans can be used with the PB shifter, by either installing a 60-64 Valve body, or Swapping the 1964 manual shift valve and rooster comb into the 65 Valve body. Also need to use the PB...

Looks like your memory is better then mine. I forgot about that "369" pan.

Not knocking you. In the hobby there are a lot of things to remember. Some you don't use for years. I am more familiar with the slant six, then with V-8's, and there are things I still pick up on, that I didn't realize. PS: at my age my memory gets fuzzy, also.

The issue with the pan is not the center link. It is the front part of the sump. The later pan hits the K member. @briansb71 If you want to keep the PB shifter, send me a message and I'll give you my phone number

I strongly suggest you get a remote control winch. Makes it real nice to be able to steer the car as you are pulling. I have am older Harbor Freight 1500 lb winch on my trailer. At the time I paid around $29.00 on sale, I use it "double" line. I have short ramps so a fairly steep upward pull...

Many filter makers started making their filters smaller to save money. Some only hold about 3/4 of a qt. Just like you used to get a pack of hotdogs that were 16 oz. Now they are 14 oz.

That is a 1 qt filter.

Something is wrong. Should read full on the stick, with 4 qts in the oil pan and 1 qt in the filter = 5 qts total. You might have the wrong dipstick. By running 2 qts over full you could have excessive oil consumption, and aerated oil. Then you wind up showing low on the stick (but not really)...

Don't assume. It is a common problem for the PCV on a slant to be plugged up. Don't check just the valve, check the complete system. A lot of times the passage in the carb is plugged up. I should have asked a long time ago. Have you hooked up an oil pressure gauge to see what the pressure really is?

Why did you over fill the engine? Should only take 5 qts with filter (unless truck). You are two qts over full.

Did you replace the "O" ring for the oil pump cover? Also make sure the PCV is hooked up and working properly.

Let me hazzard a guess. The bad studs were on the driver side. Those are left hand thread from the factory. Many of those have been snapped off by trying to turn them counter clockwise trying to remove the nuts. That just tightens them more. Need to turn them clockwise to remove them. Just the...

With front disc 4.5 inch. If the rear axles were made to "A" body specs, this drum should work. More Information for CENTRIC 12363020

Message sent