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The thing i notes the most, going from 9.4 to all most 13:1 was when i let of the gas at the end of the track.........Way better engine braking going on. as far as power.......went from a mostly stock 340 to a stroked 408 hard to compare in that way.

:rofl: I here ya.

I know it’s the holidays….but inquiring mind want to know. ;)

I had to search this thread down to find out what brand of control arms i bought back then. I also smashed 5 videos, of this project down to a 5 minute one of it. And decided to post it up while i'm here. Oh and the suspension parts are RMK

Thank you! That will be helpful if i need to fine tune the squirter cam some more at the track. Sad part is my next race is Aug 19 and it's a street tire only race. Sep is are last race of the season and is a slick race.

Here You Go

Raised float levels on front and rear bowls Warmed and set idle mixture screws, in gear(gained 200 rpm) tested......No stumble but now it goes right to 3000 rpm and then climbs to my stall at 4000 rpm. So now, i either have two much squirter or to much pump......Changed #35 squirter back to #28...

Thank you! That's how i feel and it's funny that you could Not see my float levels but hit it spot on. front fuel was down, and the rear one was down slightly as well. Adjusted them both, and will be doing another test in a while.

Not a lot of option in a 50 cc pump cams........not that that is a bad thing really. carburetor 50 cc accelerator pump cams - JEGS High Performance It says that the red one is for a 30 or 50 cc pump. I'm going to have to dig through all my Pump cams to see if i already have that Red Cam The...

yup! You are the one that taught me that one. But some time i for get and she stumbles. I'm also doing the 50 cc because i "think" i can get a better 60' time.:lol:

yup complete kit. Even came with pivot shaft, screw and C clip. My 50 cc is on the front. When out, tested blue cam, no improvement. Drilled another hole and installed the Brown can that came with the kit. Squirts at the touch of the throttle...........tested.........marginally better...

I went all the way up to 35s but the 28 works better, in the front because the squirter last longer. or longer duration. Here is a video that shows my Problem.

I have had a carb stumble for a couple of years now, that isn't a problem, if i roll the throttle instead of stabbing it........... Well every once in a while i forget to roll the throttle(usually while competing)......stab.....stumble.....****. I got me a 50 cc Squirter Pump and installed it...

Slow the video down......11 Sec in to the video. pulled the front tire back off the ground in 2nt Gear. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Sorry if i implied that he was a "Professional :rolleyes: welder. Yes, and i'm happy with it.

I also ran a bore scope down each spark plug hole. Was happy to see the burn pattern/ carbon, covers 95% of the piston top. These RHS head are pretty efficient............or maybe the 12.87:1 Compression has something to do with it. :lol:

I can't believe that cracked header affected the tune of my motor that much..............Its the only thing that changed from the last time i raced.................. May, Race 60',ET,MPH, Adj Altitude, temp, 1.80, 8.01, 85.96, 8066, 78.4 1.88, 8.11, 86.20, 8101, 78.3 1.80, 7.95, 86.95, 8166...

Header welded up, installed and loaded on the trailer.

Agree. But my" to do list" is vary long, and learning how,......... well, is kinda low on that list. I know i need to bump it up on my list, but there is always something more impotent above it on that list. A garage that has more then two lights in it, a garage that's not so hot in the...

Yeah i know but i have only welded Once in my live and it was to weld the tail light Bracket back on my car trailer that had been torn off. I don't want people to see a bugger weld on top of another bugger weld on top of another one. my trailer was at least 1/8 in steel. 25+ year old...

I just thought about this.......I thing i know when the crack started. when i was messing with that Demon carb, it was to lean at the top of the rpm and would start to pop(banging is probably a better description) I had to jet it up a lot to fix the problem. There is all ways one cylinder...

Just tooting my own horn, took me 3 hours. With a Dremel(on sale at Harbor freight for $14.95) my little butane torch, screwdriver and a small hammer. I think the header will live to see another day. Look so good i was temped to pull out my welder......But i new better. will be welded up...

Mine is a dove tail open trailer. but when i lowered my front end, 2 Inch, I have to drive up on blocks or use my trailer jack to make enough clearance to clear the headers as it come off the trailer. May also be a contribute to my issue.

All though it a different story, mine being a E body and yours an A body. Back in the day i bought Black jacks, hedmens and Hooker comp headers. all had issues but the biggest one was hanging too low to the ground and catching them on everything(was driven on the street at the time). Finally...

Well the gasket was sealing 100% My best AssUMe is that it started cracking around the flange, as it cracked most of the way around the flange on the inside(exhaust port/head side). The crack finally found a way out were it could split. Worried that i my had burnt a Valve or something. I...

That is a good idea but i have to replace the gasket which was the original problem so it need to come off anyway. They both need to come off and get fresh gaskets anyways. drivers side suck even more to take off. but there will be no Sawzall in my near future. $800.00 for a painted set and...

That is what i was think about. after i got over my poor me. I don't weld, but have bought a 110v mig welder and want to start learning. But not on this. I have a buddy that is a good welder and could probably fix me up. but he is on a hunt and won't be back for 2 weeks. I guess that plenty of...

These Super Comp Header have lived through 3 motors in the past 20+ years. and i can't fault the headers as it was my dumb *** that keep causing the banging........until it said enough.

7 gal of 112 racing fuel left. Poor boy can't afford a new drum of racing fuel..........But that is not what sidelined me. The end of last year i started to get a bad, back fire when i would let off the gas/decelerate. found that the passenger side head gasket was blown causing the back fire...

The lead Does NOT go a way...........break in your motor with some "leaded race fuel". add a gallon to a tank every so often. Valves/ seats will be happy. or spend the money on hardened exhaust seat and be happy. Motor should be happy either way. Just my 2 cents.