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Do you still have the over-center spring on the pedal? If so you need to remove it with a diaphragm pressure plate. If you have a borg and beck pressure plate w/3 fingers it should have the over-center spring on the pedal, but you might want to try removing it to see if the pedal returns better.

It shouldn't have much if any play on the input bearing retainer snout, only back and fourth movement against and away from the pressure plate. Check to see if the bearing retainer snout isn't broken. Unless you have a hydraulic clutch there should be a little clearance between the through out...

An original big block K frame requires a special drivers side motor mount which is hard to find, costs big bucks and it also requires the block to have the right mounting boss cast into it, some blocks don't have this. The old Direct Connection style K frame uses stock style mid 70's spool type...

'75-'76 A body, the brake pedal has the goofy twist in it.

Yes a whole front clip will bolt right up, with the exception of a couple of holes in the core support that will be in the wrong spot.

Measure the fork pivot to engine mounting surface of the original bellhousing, then compare to the Lakewood and add the thickness of the block saver plate, I'll bet you'll find a difference.

How about nylon/plastic fuel line for the "in tank" section and some crimp style clamps? Rubber hose wont survive ethanol fuel when submerged.

Agreed, It will pay for itself in the long run w/fuel economy.

I've bent non-chrome sticks to suit my needs in non stock applications, but if you tried to heat and bend a chrome stick you'll ruin the chrome

I've done it on a B body with a big block and headers. I used a drywall screw to get the old one out and the right sized socket on a long 1/2" extension to drive the new one in. Make sure you drive the new one in straight, have a helper hold things in position at the steering box while you tap...

That truck should have a Dana 80 in it, most likely 3.55 and might not have a limited slip in it. The Dana 80, 70 and 60 all have same basic shape when looking at the cover but the D-80 will measure 13 1/2" top to bottom vs the D-70 at 12 5/8" and the D-60 at 12". Those diesel trucks don't want...

Might as well get gaskets and seals to do the job.

Had the radio stopped working they would have brought the car in to get fixed ASAP. Some people will literally drive a car till the wheels fall off but if the radio or A/C stops working the car becomes "un-drivable"

The overall length is the same on all '67 to '76 strut rods, however the 73 and up w/course threads on the bushing end uses a thicker bushing so the strut has different end to accommodate the thick bushings. You can mix and match different strut rods and K frames as long as you have the right...

The Rusty hope brake setup will probably be the cheapest way to do a "bolt on" disk conversion, about $400 total w/brackets, rotors, calipers, pads, hardware, etc.. The biggest hurdle to overcome when putting a v8 in one of these cars is the steering column, it's going to want to occupy the same...

Because the slant 6 to big block conversion mounts are about 50 bucks. Trans Dapt 4697 is what you'll need.

It's not marketed for the US, it's basically a small mini van/wagon built on the Cruze platform.

The TIPM (under hood fuse box) goes bad in a lot of those Rams, but to be sure a little troubleshooting is in order. See if you're missing either the power or ground, most likely power since the hi beam works. trace the wire back to the TIPM to make sure it isn't broken somewhere between the...

Speedway sells 3/4" Swedged tubes in 1 inch increments with LH and RH threads on the ends, just figure out what length you need and replace the tube.

Poly armor line is the stuff with the green coating, its basically a steel line with a plastic coating over it, as long as you don't scratch the coating off it will last a while even in the rust belt, but if the coating gets rubbed off there's no corrosion protection. Copper nickel line looks...

Probably was Muggyweld.

The problem with just buying an engine will be all the other stuff needed to do the swap. It would probably be cheaper and easier in the long run to buy a whole truck and just swap cabs. Something like an old school bus or an old U haul truck would fit the bill, you'll get more modern brakes and...

If you're going to keep it as a big truck put a DT360 or a 12v Cummins in it. Gas engine suck it big trucks.

I just changed a cvt transmission on a '15 Rogue last week, was making a noise like a ring a pinion not set up right. Only had about 65K miles on it. Good thing the customer had a warranty on it because it was quite spendy.

The levers are indeed hardened but only case hardened, so if you took a Dremel tool or small grinder to the area you want to drill and grind past the hardened layer you'll be able to drill right through with no problem. If you grind the area to be drilled but still can't get the bit to bite...

Those look like the pieces for stowing the shoulder portion of the seat belts.

I personally like the edelbrock performer cam #2177, it really wakes up a stock 318 and has a nice smooth idle. I've had that cam in my daily driver for many years and love it. Put an adjustable timing set in it and run it a few degrees advanced and it should do exactly what your looking for.

Ford put that pipe there to give you something to burn yourself on. Auto manufacturers have been punishing mechanics from day one.

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Ford's "lower-friction" V8 engine wasn't a result of the over head valve architecture, it came from the discontinued use of the double oil rings on the pistons, less rings riding up and down on the cylinder walls made for less drag.