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Do whatever you wish, but align honing will cure any possible problems. Do to usage, age and core shift there might be a problem that will cost you money later down the line. Ask me how I know.

As long as you have the block and caps align honed, you will be good.

NHRA quit caring about the Sportsman Racers decades ago. For that reason my former partner (RIP) and I went over to IHRA. We got to know the officials over the years and they genuinely cared about the Sportsman classes. At the larger events, they made sure to ride the pit area letting us know...

DO NOT use the aluminum blocks, eventually the pin will wear away or shear off. As stated earlier, check the pinion angle and see what it is. The springs will settle some as you drive the car.

If the house was built in an unincorporated area, there probably wasn't much inspection (if any) done. That is one of the many downfalls of buying a "used" home. The house the wife and I bought about 10 years ago was an electricians nightmare. Fixtures wired about ceiling, no box, wires twisted...

If it were cleaned up a bit more, someone may be able to tell you more about it.

Is the MC you are using for a disc/drum set up, and is it plumbed correctly through the proportioning valve? That would be the first things I would check, if you haven't already.

Welcome from Texas. I hope you aren't looking for original Halibrand wheels, they are "stupid" expensive. There is a company out there that makes aluminum wheels that a pretty much an exact copy.

Welcome from Texas, nice job on the clock.

Welcome from another Texan, it looks like you have a good foundation to start with.

If it is a race only car, before you install the fiberglass pieces, use various size hole saws to put the unseen sheet metal on a diet. I don't suggest this for a street driven car because of the potential water leakage. You would be surprised how much weight the car will loose with the holes...

Can you post pictures and a good description of the mechanical rocker gear?

TMM, not necessarily bigger gears, they are taller top to bottom.

Don't run the high pressure pump on a normal street engine, the HV pump is fine, I too only run the HV pumps in everything.

Are you sure of the block casting number and what is the casting date?

For safety sake and if your budget allows, convert it to manual disk brakes on the front. You won't regret the swap and no one will be able to tell the difference.

My money is on you were sold metric lines, I've had it happen because the counter jockey didn't pay attention and I took his word for it being correct. These days I take a sample fitting with me so "I" can make sure I get the correct line.

Don't be sad over the runs and orange peel. sad them out, glaze it, wax it and be proud that you can say "I did it myself".

I have a glass hood and had a Pro Stock style scoop installed by a fellow racers body shop. We opted to slot my hood and put the flange on the underside. Our thinking was that it would be less prone to cracking when the hood started lifting slightly down track. So far, 10 years later there are...

Mine is roughly 4-5 inches above the pavement. I also welded a piece of 1/4" flat bar at an angle under the leading edge of my 8 quart oil pan as a safety measure. I've seen too many pans and engines destroyed because they banged the pan letting off with good traction at the strip.

So, where is the timing mark on the balancer?

If the wheels have a 5 x 4 1/2" BC, they are most likely T-bird wheels, some of those wheels do not have any markings on them because Ford outsourced them.

Yes, by all means use the remote starter switch to verify the timing mark. Once you have marked the hash on the balancer, bring it to TDC and see where the mark is pointing on the balancer as well as where the rotor is pointing.

It requires a special tool to get the remainder of the plug out, be sure to put never seize on the threads of the new plugs. You will thank yourself later by doing this.

Try taking the 4 plastic spacers out of your existing gasket and then tighten down the carburetor.

Depending on what body that the 273 is in, the 3.91 gear would be interesting if you could run a tall enough tire as to not be red lined at highway speeds. I ran 3.55's in my 67 273 4 speed Dart in the late 60's early 70's. I ran as tall of a tire as I could during the week because it was my DD...

Nice 73 Cuda, I bought, cleaned up and flipped a 73 Gran Cuda that was triple black but was a 318 auto car. Unfortunately, the interior suffered from the Arizona heat and lack of up keep. It was a nice AC car, despite the ragged interior.

This sign needs to be placed around every race track in the world, maybe it will stop tracks from being closed due to the idiots that buy property close to them and the "*****" about the noise!

@MoparLeo

Put up an ad in the "Wanted" section. I'll bet someone here has what you need.