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thanks guys for the replies got one from a member on here thanks

looking for a good manual steering gear for an abody one that's in good shape and not crazy price going on a 71 demon let me know what you guys have thanks

sold

hay guys selling this grant steering wheel only reason wife didn't like how small it was got a different wheel In car now brand new with install kit is around 80 I believe I'm looking for 50.00 plus shipping and paypal fees thanks cj located in wisconsin

never mind this is for a magnum head not older j heads

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crane-Rocker-Arm-Guideplate-Conversion-Small-Block-Ford-Mopar-P-N-36655-16-/401049191288?hash=item5d60650378:g:JI4AAOSwK7FWho02&vxp=mtr has anyone on here use this conversion to get away from the shaft mounted rockers they kit says you can then use normal roller rocker...

sent pm

ok thanks for the info

I'm taking my car to the track and wondering do you guys run a quart over I have a 340 with a stock pan running five quarts right now

hay guys wondering what oil everyone is running and why. I have a 340 with hyd flat tappet cam I heard of people running standard oil with an additive added to it but I don't want to do that I currently running joe gibbs hr oil conventional oil here is my problem a friend of mine is also running...

hi guys update here added ground to the ignition module and now my tach issue is gone thanks for the input always helpful

hay guys wondering if anyone had this problem I have a brand new Stewart warner digital tach and shift light when I'm doing a pull the tach will start to not read accurately at the top of a pull around 4600 or so what it does it will read 4600 then 5200 back to 4300 and just bounce around and...

I'm running headman 1 5/8 headers into 2 1/2 inch exhaust with a h pipe with flowmaster 10s should flow pretty good I'm wondering if I should go to a bit larger cam do to the gears and stall converter just my thought

rumble fish when u say air flow is the limiter are you talking in the heads there is also a offenhauser tunnel ram on it to with two 450s and I had a wide band in the exhaust and wide open its at 12.3 ish

ok see I not sure if the cam was degreed it was supposed to be but my cam card says nothing of what it was installed at I'm running 410 in the rear with a 727 with a 3400 stall converter maybe I'm expecting more out of the motor

ok just wondering I have a comp cams xe268h cam in my 340 small block with early j heads with the bigger valves just wondering if the heads are being my limiter on making more power it does have 10:1 pistons in it also I feel like the car should pull harder on the top end just wondering thanks

oh yeah this car never had a vibration problem till the center bearing went out and the back half of the driveshaft failed if this helps

here is a pic of how the drive shaft is not actually car but good example yes the driveshaft is splined with a slip yoke after the center bearing all the u joints are brand new and the drive shaft was balanced as a whole unit to me its not a tire vibration its to fast of a vibration and its felt...

hi guys I know its not an a body but still a mopar what im working on it a 1961 Chrysler imperial four door with push button trans and a 413 in it. the story starts out with the car had a really bad vibration but found out the center bearing was shot it a two piece drive shaft so sent out shaft...

well boys after a few nights of working on the car found the problem the place I have the carbs rebuilt messed something up I had two things going on first the power valve was double gasket so I removed one of the gaskets second I found that one of the butterflies on the carb was installed...

I am running power valves now the only vacuum port on those carbs are for the vacuum advance on the metering block

ok went out to the garage used a temp gun this time and checked bank 1 of the engine front two where 240ish and rear two where five hundred after like two minutes of running so I called my engine builder and we where talking and he said sounds to me like u have a vacuum leak and leaning out that...

ok I have a 71 dart with a fresh built 340 and im doing some final tuning on it well every thing was going good I have a wide band 02 sensor in the exhaust numbers are looking good so I pulled plugs to check the out and I notice that the two from second from the front of the motor should be 3...

im almost positive that I did the orifice plug now that I looked at that link so if this is what my tranny is doing if I manual shift it then it shouldn't do this if I keep it in second gear right ?

yeah I have a Fairbanks shift kit in it bought from patc did the street setup on it not sure what orifice your talking about

oh yeah it is a acc torque converter 3200 stall non lock up and I did buy it used very slightly used I know the guy that had it but it did sit on a shelf for some time had the front snout taped up

well it would be in third cruising it doesn't matter if im going 30 or 60 mph

ok guys im thinking its trans issues that I got just want to see if anyone else had this problem, I have a 71 dart swinger with a 340 that is fresh 1000 miles on it may be and a 727 trans with the same, now when I first get the car out and drive down the road I feel like the brakes are being...

im sure this has been asked on here before just cant find anything on it when I search for it, my question is I have a 76 dart that im converting to manual steering the box im getting in a early 64 to 72 but I am getting the pitman arm for it, will the tapered ball joint end fit in to my center...