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I've got some headers you can have cheap if you want to drive down to Santa Cruz and pick them up. Came to me with a project along with a bunch of other stuff I didn't use. No name on 'em that I can find, but good, thick flanges. Need a bead blast and paint.

Was this a power steering car, and if so what do you want for the column & steering wheel? Thanks

Manual or automatic?

On the advice of Don Dulmage, for my 383 I went with a Comp Cams "Nostalgia Series" cam looking for the same chacteristiscs as you: Aggressive sound but good street manners. This series is specifically designed for this. I used this one: Summit Racing Part Number: CCA-21-670-4 UPC...

Well, I finally had a little car time and made some progress, so here's an update: I monkeyed around with the advance some without getting the result I wanted, then one day when I had time to kill at my desk I decided to call the Holley/Demon tech line. Good thing I had time to kill, because...

Kit- Did you mean too much vacuum advance, or that it is coming in too soon? It looks like my vacuum can is adjustable, but the adjustment affects the maximum * it can add, not the vacuum level at which it starts to advance.

I've been trying unsucessfully to tune this very slight surge out and am getting frustrated. It is a slight, repeating at a regular interval surge at what I'd call parade speed: Just rolling along with my foot barely resting on the accelerator, ~975-1100 rpm. Put your foot into it a little bit...

Got it kinda figured out. The distributor is a mid-60's vintage that someone converted to electronic. Unfortunately, it appears that the vac pod is no longer readily available. May be a Firecore in my near future...

I just replaced a red top Optima. It still worked- sorta- but just wasn't charging fully anymore. It was 8 years old.

There is no number tag on the dizzy, but there is a cast-in number: 2444676. Does that help? I was told the engine may have been original to a Jensen. I didn't want to go back to the original pod as 11* was more than I wanted, but I could make my temporary pin replacement more permanent if I...

The electronic distributor on my 383 was getting no vacuum advance, so I took it apart, cleaned it up, and put on a new vacuum pod- the pin on the end of the old one was MIA. The dizzy came to me with the engine, so I don't know anything about its history, but the pod I took off was marked 11*...

I have no experience with that dizzy, but I do have experience with the seller and would not buy from him again.

Is this for LA, B, or RB?

I get positive comments on gold. I wouldn't have thought it would look good with silver/chrome accessories, but IMO it does.

From a post I made on another forum... I am using MSD Streetfire Wires on my project. They are a made in USA, 8mm, black. universal fit set. Cost about $35 at Summit. Unfortunately I cut one wire a little short, and wanted to redo my coil wire with straight boots/terminals instead of the 90...

I am using MSD Streetfire Wires on my project. They are a made in USA, 8mm, black. universal fit set. Cost about $35 at Summit. Seem to work fine. Unfortunately I cut one wire a little short, and wanted to redo my coil wire with straight boots/terminals instead of the 90 degree ones that came...

Thank you both for the additional explanation. I just wanted to be sure I understood what you were saying. Bills final paragraph above also reminded me to double check where I'm getting power for the electric fan & fuel pump. I rewired it completely 5 years ago and no longer remember exactly...

This confused me. The shunt we are talking about is in the run from Alt to Battery + , right?

So with the pictured pair what goes where? Dumb it down for me: Battery wire goes where?, Alt wire where?

Thanks for the clarification BillG, That is almost too easy! I run original gauges in my 1938 Chrysler. Modern new wiring, and a 75 amp alt with electric fan & fuel pump, halogen lights etc; but I just love the look of the original gauges and I went through a lot to get them, & to get them...

Do you mean the ammeter works as normal at low current, then bypasses as current increases? If so, can you direct me to that post? I'd like to do this.

Gotcha. My crank pulley has the 2 slightly different drive groove diameters, so that wouldn't work. Maybe trucks used a different crank pulley with both grooves the same? Or the 4-groove like the motorhome?? Or just ran the p/s directly off the water pump like I'm thinking... This would...

I got all of that except this: "If your crank pulley has both of the pulleys the same diameter you could double belt off the crank around a double groove water pump pulley and take one belt to alt and one to p/s pulley I think. " I may just be too tired, but could you rephrase that?

It sure looks like that truck bracket- though not pretty- would get the job done. Here is what I'm dealing with: If I go to the truck bracket, the path for the belt from crank pulley to p/s pulley wants to hit the bottom of the water pump pulley snout (that's what I was checking with the strip...

Thanks Dubob! I'd not seen that style of bracket before at all. Comparing centerlines of the pump pulley shafts, how much higher would you say the p/s pump shaft is than the w/p shaft? I'm thinking this is a good way to compare because the water pump itself would be in the same spot on the...

I'd appreciate it! CVF didn't reply to my email yet, and has no phone # to call.?!

I was just looking at that one. Sent them an email asking if it really is higher as it appears to be (In the only photo I've found). Have you seen it in person gdMike?

Not sure if I'd know one if I saw it. The one I have right now that isn't high enough is like this from 440source:

I'm still trying to shoehorn a 383 into my '38 Chrysler. It looked like I had everything in till I found that my Saginaw PS pump needs to be up a little higher than the Mopar factory high-mount bracket puts it. I reckon if the center of the PS pulley was 1.5"-2" higher than the center of the...

Carb flange is supposed to be level with the car at ride height. This would usually mean the engine would be a couple of degrees nose up. The carb flange will not be level if the engine is level.