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Check out the S480 clones on eBay too. I’ve been eyeing this one as an upgrade if I ever finish my current build. S400SX4 S480 80mm Billet Wheel T4 Twin Scroll 1.25 A/R Turbo 96/88mm Turbine | eBay

I wonder how big a difference a 1.25A/R would make.

Are you using a windage tray? Idk, maybe I’m way off but I’m thinking windage.

Yes, the most primary concern is crank windage. If the crank is whipping up the oil, it’ll aerate it and the pump will not be able to pump it.

I was able to build up to 50psi on a cheap harbor freight drill, IIRC. It did kill the drill though lol.

I think ARE used to make them as well.

I’m using a custom machined adapter and a Jeep 4L cam sensor for cam position on Holley EFI. I’m not sure if the power grid has the ability, but with just a crank sensor you should be able to run wasted spark.

I called JVX the other day to talk about the conversion kit. The gentleman there said the flexplate comes neutral balance but that they could do any balance that you wanted (ie. LA 360 or Magnum 360) for an additional $80. I forgot to ask about the converter snout adapter, I think there are two...

MENU Home Catalog Contact Info 35820 is the p/n for LA to 8HP flexplate.

If you look at the con rod bearings on a stock magnum, the top bearing will show the same wear. With the plenum leaks and stock tuning the magnums detonated all the time and I think that’s what we are seeing in those bearings. The cam bearings delaminate as well.

Just catching up with the thread. Excellent job on the chassis work!

Do it! JVX racing has conversion flexplates for both the LA and magnum.

Right now I’m leaning towards a Turbo Lamik TCU, initial cost outlay seems a little more than the other two I’ve researched but it has more of the features I'm looking for. It completely replaces the stock TCU in the trans and allows transbrake, bump, and even wiring in a "clutch" pedal to...

Yeah a little, it’s not uncharted territory though so I think I can get it done in a reasonable amount of time. When it came down to it, I really wasn’t happy with just three forward speeds as I want to be able to drive on the highway comfortably. I also want a transbrake. Everything I want is...

Fuel pump output has been figured out and the fuel lines have been ran. Just need to finish up a couple small items and I'll be able to start the motor. I also decided to change the transmission plan, I'll be putting in an 8HP70 that I just picked up.

Yeah, that's one of the major selling points for the Turbo Lamik to me. That and the trans brake.

I'll also be doing an 8HP70 swap, picking mine up from the junkyard tomorrow. It's going on the back of a 360 magnum, and I'll be getting a flexplate from JVX racing. Still deciding how I'm going to control it but I'm leaning towards the Turbo Lamik controller.

I wouldn't trust a knockoff regulator, I bought an Aeromotive bypass regulator for $150 which I think is worth the price premium. The cheap AN lines will probably be just fine for a little while, the rubber liner will harden and degrade very quickly compared to quality lines especially when...

Interested in seeing the results of the 2.055 valve head. That's the same setup I'll be running, except with an EFI elbow instead of a 1" spacer.

Haven't installed it yet, still have to swap heads. The holes are in the right place so that's a start lol .

Are my eyes deceiving me or is there a slight bend in that tube? I tacked in one side of my 2x3 frame connectors but I have 10' of 1-5/8 .120 that I was thinking of using instead.

As long as the stuffed unicorn is within the rules of course...

I wrapped my down pipe and up pipes in the fiberglass stuff, I hate it. If I so much as look at the stuff my hands and arms itch for the rest of the night. Got a link to the carbon stuff? I'd love to get rid of the fiberglass wrap.

Following along, I'm at the same stage with the floors on my car. I think I'm going to cut the rest of the bellhousing bump on the firewall off, I'm done fighting with those bolts if I don't have to. So maybe look into that.

I don’t remember, are you using the torsion bars or something else for the front? If you’re getting rid of the torsion bars, I’d replace that crossmember with tube or box section. Pick a point on the rockers and level everything off it, lay a sheet across and viola. At least that’s what I’d do...

Water in the heads and top half of the cylinders? Dry deck?

Ah ok, sounds like it’s classic right foot traction control for you then. I’ll have to look and see if I can find the rules for those classes.

Do they allow traction control in any of the classes?

When you are tubing the pushrod holes, are you porting first and then tubing? Or the other way round?

Yup Pushrod oiling: S72025K = 1.5, S72026K = 1.6 Shaft oiling: S72005K = 1.5, S72006K = 1.6