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Its pretty easy, the only difference is the early fenders have small tabs that hold the upper support so you have to make some. You do have to get the early bumper mounts requires slight modification if your bumpers are shock type. My 74 had shock type rear bumper and solid mount front. On a...

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Guess that would help.

Car is located in Spring Tx, $3,500 price is flexible. Questions or comments please feel free. I have a thread in the members restoration if anyone wants to look through what the car started as. The car is still a project mainly needs body work and upholstery. 1974 Plymouth Duster 72...

Thinking about selling this car would like some input on what the market is before I post up a for sale ad locally and on here. I would like to get around 3200 for it. Currently its a running and driving project current inspection and registration. Curious is my asking would be realistic...

Wont work, my 74 duster is the same way. Took forever to get the parts house to get me a box that would fit ended up looking up a trailduster to get the box.

Clutch differentials are good units I put a clutch type in my pops duster, I have a true trac style in my lightning it takes a pounding and never had an issue with it. Personally if you need something to back high horsepower go true trac if its mild clutch ftw

^^^ I think we have a winner. Let the car run till it died and immediately swapped to a different coil and she cranked right back up. I let the car run on the new coil for awhile then swapped to the old coil and let it run till it died again.

Gonna try swapping the coils out once the car gets to the point it wont run, ill check the voltage at the coil wires as well. If nothing changes I can temporarily wire in my MSD box to see if that solves the problem or not.

Tried running with the gas cap off, no luck still dies. I looked harder at the spark now that I had some spare hands to keep the car running while I looked at the spark tester and it seems like the car is missing I dont see spark when I think I should and when I do its very difficult to see...

I checked the spark right after it died and looked good. I never thought about a blocked vent.. This car would have had a charcoal canister which I dont use anymore and I put a single feed fuel sender/pump so no return. And best I remember It doesnt have anything else on the tank or fuel neck...

Eddy 600, 1" spacer

Ok finally got some time to tinker with the duster. 1. Choke is all the way open when the car finally dies. 2. Put a spark tester in line and ran it, again ran absolutely great till bam its dead no sputtering just flat out dies. I did notice the first time that the fuel filter was half empty so...

I had one for a couple years very fun to drive with the 6 speed t56. The car itself is really nothing but a Australian Holden with different badges. Traction control was a pain though if you didnt turn it off and spun the tires a actuator would kick the throttle pedal up to decelerate.

Your talking about one of the lights that goes inline between the plug wire and spark plug?

There are no other filters in the system other than the sock in the tank. The line is brand new steel fuel line. Didnt run a bypass line. The connector is kinda jacked up at the distributor from being unplugged, it is the original distributor for what I can tell. Ill give all of these a...

Car is a 1974 Duster 318 M4. Previous owner hacked the engine harness up I got a replacement from Waggs. I will try both of these suggestions. At this point if somebody said standing on my head while rubbing my belly would do the trick I would give it a shot.

Thanks for the Idea I will give it a try. But I dont think fuel delivery was an issue I have a clear inline filter that looks completely clear, ive checked the inlet screen in the carb several times fuel tank and lines are less than a year old.

At a loss trying to figure out this problem, had to step away from the car for a bit and now im back at it. Any ideas would be appreciated. Below is an explanation of the symptoms and things ive tried or replaced sorry for the long post. After first getting the car in running and driving...

Its a copy of a willwood version I run one on my race-car if the link below is what you are talking about. They work fine. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/63022/10002/-1

TADA!

Decided to go ahead and put in the new lower quarter on the drivers side that was rotted out. Cut the old panel off and the inner was toast as well which I knew. So made a completely new one from scratch welded it all together and its back on the car. Just needs to be blended back in. Sorry for...

Made alot of progress today, cut out the old tail pan and grafted in the new pan its all welded in and lines up great. Gonna rain the next couple days so I will do the body work either sunday or early next week.

Pulled the ignition module off the fenderwell just to check (old chrome module) the module had turned to jello.

I know the Earthquake series impact are expensive for a harbor-freight but they are very good impacts and pack a punch.

May need to start something new in the electronics sections, I put the timing light on and its spot on even when it heats up BUT when the car heats up the car starts to burble and the car starts missing, every few seconds there are moments the timing light shuts off.

I dont really notice slack while trying to turn the engine by hand and watch the rotor. By hand there is approx 1/8" L/R turn I can make on the rotor. Would make sense that something else is degrading. I have made longer drives with this carb before making any changes. When I say I have 15-18...

I changed the resistor out and put a known good coil on the car but didn't help. I'm gojna pull the carb off the car and look at it better maybe I'm missing some trash or something. I've never had trouble with a eddy like this before.

Kinda what im thinking too, carbs really ticking me off. Just dont understand why it seems to work so well till it warms up. Even with a 1" spacer. and the engine bay really doesnt get all that hot deff not anywhere near over heating. I am using a fixed fan with no shroud at the moment.

Its really not running too rich gas smell is non existent, I pulled a plug yesterday and they are burning tan/brown..... I put one step up main jets in it to see if it would help. The performance is WAYYYY better, but.... cant even make a small trip around the block without it dying at every...