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ok so what I was lookingathttps://www.ebay.com/itm/304065130934 listed for an 82-89, so I'm guessing there different. Also could anyone tell what the 2 rubber bands are for?

That would be nice know, to make sure they match?

Are they the same (or compatible ) to 73+ A-body calipers? They look the same in picture?

:BangHead:

Ok taking pishta's suggestions I did bit of checking. The coil read 1.4 ohms across the post and 9.8k ohms internally. Interesting the coil I changed out (an Accel) had the same readings. With the ignition on I read 12v across the coil and as 12v to the source to the Summit box. This tell...

What does it matter what brand CDI box it is they work the same way, and they are even wired the same, so the diagnostic should be very similar.

When everything running the spark is fine, the car runs like freight train. Which makes me think it's something else. It is possible the box is the problem, but with all of the other variables I'd like to see if there's something else first.

Thank You pishta for giving me some input I can use. Ok I'm sorry for rubbing some of you the wrong way, but if I just go ahead swap out a the ignition system because some doesn't like what I have and I still have the problem, then I've just wasted a lot of time and money. I'd like to make...

Guys the ignition box is fine, there something else going on here. People have been using MSDs for ever, and yes maybe there not as reliable as they once were but for most part they still work. Otherwise they wouldn't sell. How about a little less option and maybe some constructive help please...

I did isolate that wire.

My car wouldn't run right with with chrome box? Believe me I tried. It ran great with MSD that is when it ran. I should add this a built motor, 410 roller cam Eddy ported heads. The box I'm using isn't an actual MSD it's Summits version and I think it's working fine. I think it's something...

Having trouble getting spark out of my ignition. I have an MSD a high voltage coil and a stock electronic distributor. I rewired it the ignition according the MSD instructions, which eliminates the ballast. A first it ran great. I drove it for while then it no spark. I checked the wiring, and...

Need some work on a 904, anyone know someone good in the Triad area (Greensboro NC).

What l listed above only cost around $8 on Amazon and I was able to just the cable portion and it work perfectly.

ATP Y-803 or ATP Y-804 It depends

I have a 410 stroker in mine, "insane" maybe but it sure is fun!:steering:

Another factor would be your transmission, a mannual is a lot harder on the rear end.

YY1 I used one the correct spline for the box on one end, and then I knocked the pin out of rod and ran a bolt though the round coupler end. I also add some set screws in the round end to take any slop. I don't remember what the spine count was but if do some research you can figure that...

I have auto floor shift so not sure the tall pipe will clear your clutch linkage. You see some rubbing on the streering rod, because I put a spacer on the passenger side motor mount for clearance of my Kevko oil pan, now I have to do the same on the driver’s side and it should clear.

Here are a couple photos that might help Looks like the photo moparmat2000 posted shows that it probably won't work on the power steering. I wonder if you put a right angle fitting a make a custom hose it might clear it, but is it worth it to do all that?

By the way don't grind on manifold itself for clearance the walls are very thin, been there done that:rolleyes:

Since I have an early a it's pretty tight in there, and had shave off .020" off the manifold and I used a smaller streering coupling. I do have a manual box, and I can't speak for the later cars but if works in mine I'm pretty sure it will work.

I'm using them on my 65 they work for well, but the ports don't quite match (easily fixed with a die grinder ). They exit out the back so make sure things like the speedo cable is tied away. Most of them have a 2.25" exit, but some do have 2.5", but sure which.

If none of that works give it some heat with a propane torch, but don't get it too hot to deform the brass fitting. If all else falls pre bent lines are not expensive (and yours look pretty crusty) l have an extra set if you're interested. Cut the tube an then remove it by loosening the brass...

Check tbe voltage regulator behind the dash, it steps the voltage down to 5v for gauges There's lot of good info on this forum, do some searches and get a lot:thumbsup:

Any 273, 318, 340 (except 72,73) will fit. The older ones are forged, but a cast one will work as well. Eagle & Scat sell new ones.

Very nice looks like it's meant to be there:thumbsup:

Looks like a quick change

Yes they do, if my memory serves me right. The pad are the same but arm rest are different.

If you're using a "temporary " spare I would think you wouldn't be ridding on it very long and certainly not doing burnouts :eek:. Therefore I don't think you'll be hurting your rear end. My 65 has a pretty small well, so I'm using a Crown Vic aluminum temp like the one pictured above and fits...