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I had a 3" single Spintech on my Dakota R/T. Ditched it for single 3" 18" body Magnaflow. Much quieter with the Magnaflow. Then when to dual 3" Magnaflow ( still 18" bodies). Even MORE quiet (until you get on it, then it's a nice deep rumble). I'm currently running the 14" Magnaflows on my Scamp.

In the Spring, fill them with dirt and plant potatoes in them. When the potatoes are ready to pull, pick the tires up and you will have potatoes without having to dig for them! That is, unless you don't make a coffee table for them :)

Have you looked on Delphiforums? There are some Dakota R/T websites over there.

If I'm understanding his question correctly he is wondering why the LA 360's were rated at 250 horse compared to rated to 230 of the Magnum maybe? If that's the question, the answer is pretty simple.. Carb vs Injection. A decently tuned carbed motor will make more horse than a conservative tuned...

I can tell you from personal experience that 3.5" wont work :)

I mounted one in the middle of my license plate before. I don't know how the cops are in your state, but they are assholes in Oklahoma. I was pulled over, told to go get a new plate and not to "destroy state property again". My response was, if it's state property, why did I PAY several hundred...

I don't work for them..lol. Yes, I totally understand the frustration. I had a great deal lined out for a Viper T-56 about 3 years ago that I wanted to mate to a small block. There wasn't any way to do it cost effective because I kept getting all of the same roadblocks you are.

You should eat up stock to mild 5.0's without much of a problem if you have decent gears and tune. Most of them in stock form struggled to get a 15.50 pass when they were new, 4.6's are as equally unimpressive. It takes ALOT of mods to get those cars into the 13's (I'm talking from 2004 and back).

I just recently did a 360 Magnum swap into my Scamp. TTI Headers, B&M Flexplate, 904 and used a starter out of a Dakota. The only fitment issues I had was raising the motor up in the mounts about a 1/4" to make sure the TTI's didn't rub against the steering box.

You may want to consider a "push-pull switch" from Flamming River. You can mount it under the car and just mount a holder for the lever. Have the lever coming out underneath the bumper. And a side note, the lever can be taken off fairly easy so it only has to be there when you go to the track...

That means, yeah we have the parts, but you have to buy the entire thing from us. You will not only have to change the bellhousing, you will have to change the input shaft also.

Mine will rest on the steering box in my 74 if you try to drop it as deep as you can in the motor mounts. I just picked the motor up a hair (less than a 1/4 inch) and welded the washers to the motor mounts. No problems at all now.

I can remember years ago when my Dad had his 440-6pack 4 speed Super Bee. When he ran it, you could not hear the shifts, just one steady pull. I have only seen a handful of people that could drive a stick like that. Now you have a goal.... :)

Cool. How long ago was it? I live in Norman, have most of my life. Born here, grew up here, left for several years and came back. I went to OU back in 1987/88

some people use a line lock. I kept one foot on the clutch, my toe from my right foot on the brake, and my heel of my right foot on the gas :). Hold RPM at 3K and LAUNCH! Yeah, it takes a little practice.

I notice they didn't say anything about "side stepping" the clutch in that article. A very useful tool from a roll race. Say you are rolling along around 25 MPH and someone is next to you wanting to race. You can push down slightly on the clutch (less than 1/2 way), to build up RPMS and drop the...

Just that. With the brake engaged, let the clutch out almost to the point of foward motion of the vehicle. It helps to tighten that little bit of movement in the driveshaft just before you drop the clutch. I had 92,000 miles on a set of stock U-Joints in my 5 Speed Dakota, launching on a 150...

Oh, one more hint, take the slack out of the driveline by releasing the clutch just prior to the point of forward motion. This will save you from trashing the driveline.

If you are looking for the best shift point..Try shifting at several different RPM's until you produce the best MPH (may not necessarily be the best ET). The MPH is the best indicator as to how much HP you are getting out of it. Once you have established what shift points will give you the...

yes

Not anymore, SCT has just released (will be at dyno shops currently tuning Fords & Chevys next week) a FULLY TUNABLE system for Chrysler products 1996 and up. Total cost buying the controller to operate the program, dyno time and all should be about $800. It will tune from bone stock to the...

I would be willing to bet you will. Hell, the weight savings alone off the front end alone will help. Prepare to re adjust your torsion bars because it will sit up a little bit from the weight drop.

You would have to have a foot print gas pedal installed also... sorry, couldn't resist :)

I used 4" exhaust pipe and rubber joints on both of my Dakotas. Both were primarily set up for Nitrous shark nozzles in mind. Makes about 3 tenths difference when connected.

As far as the belt situation goes, you could always carry a short belt that bypasses A/C. Alot of the Dakota guys that race by one that eliminates both A/C and Power Steering for when they get to the track. One other thing to remember you will need to change the water pump also. The pulley...

Great Tip! I also have never heard of that happening. I will watch every time I pull one off now.

It's locked up in my buddies shop right now. I will take some next Saturday and post 'em up. It's hooked to a built 904/2500 stall, 8 3/4 3.91 gears, 750 Edelbrock/Air Gap, TTI Headers with 3" exhaust & Magnaflows. Exhaust will probably kill it on motor (was my set up for my 340), but will be...

No, swapped it to carb. Did leave the serpentine belt set up. Kinda weird to see that in that car, makes alot more room in their though. Plus no hassles of lining all the pulleys up for those dam'n V Belts.

Just finished swapping a Dakota R/T motor into the Scamp. Sounds real nice, haven't got to get on it yet though. Hope it runs as good as the motor in my Dakota R/T.

Also, no reason why you can't carb a magnum motor. I recommed the Crosswinds Air Gap intake (you can use it on either a Magnum or LA). If you run an electric fuel pump, you don't have to change timing cover and buy a fuel pump eccentric button for the end of the cam so that will save some...