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Rebuilt 904, had A & A rebuild transbrake, got all forward gears but no reverse when button is pushed in reverse or neutral. Fluid level checked good. Have 12.5 volts at plug to valvebody. Where do I go from here? Air checked clutches and servos before putting on pan.

It's assembled on bench. Has Teflon seals on stator. I will give the fluid a shot.

I put together a 904 with transbrake. The front drum has a bleed off hole drilled in it. The issue I have is when air checking the front clutch air is coming out the pump. I can hear the piston move but im not sure about the air leakage. This is my 1st build with a drum that has a hole...

Thanks John! The piston seal has a number on it that matches a 700R4. The inner lip seal appears to be slightly smaller than stock but I'll give it a shot.

Anyone have the part number to a 904 billet drum inner lip seal?

Here it is, ATI sprag, what a beast! 30 rollers vise 10 or 12.

Yes. I have a billet drum from A & A.

I ordered ATI sprag today, I'll post pics when it's installed.

Yes it has the connection in the back. I took it apart and it has the lockup input shaft.

Just a quick trip to the store.

I'm well aware of bolt in sprags.

Anyone using ATI's sprag? Im looking for a strong sprag. I checked A & A website, he showed nothing for 904. I also checked Cope.

I got another 904.... Can someone decode PK4431556 9293 4943.

Had severe tire shake and this is the result.

If so, I'll just use a 360 block and sell the 340. I have 4 360 blocks.

Is there any extra stress on the block using a longer stroke?

The application is bracket racing while driving to and from the track. That is what I do now with a 360 with stock cast crank and flat top pistons. Best time on 100 octane is 11.10 at 115 mph. Last year I ran 87 octane with methanol & water 11.15 at 117 mph.

I failed to mention I will be using a girdle from hughes

I got a 71 340 block that's bored .040 over, the machine shop did a sonic test and said it has .275 in the thrust and that was good. I can't afford an R3 block yet, but I want to build a stroker using a 4.250 crank. So, my question is Can a factory 340 handle a big stroke using 2 bolt mains...

Snow Performance does not stand behind their product. I bought that same kit and it worked for a few passes. I sent the controller back for repair and they sent it back to me saying nothing is wrong. I bought a used controller off EBAY to prove the controller is junk and they did not care...

They sent my Muscle controller back to me saying everything is fine and still doesn't work. I put my friends controller on and everything worked great. After a week of telephone run a round the tech support sent me an email saying that since the controller worked for them that they will not...

I also sent emails and posted on their Facebook page. They deleted my post!

I put the muscle car injection kit on my Dart and the system stopped working after 2 passes. The MCVC controller was sent in for warranty repair 3 weeks ago and I can't get a hold of tech support. I called Monday and the operator said Josh would call me back. Friday I call and the operator...

Would installing a 73+ transmission cross member with spool mount be better than the older style?

Forgot to mention this is the third time, 1st time was with rubber mounts and torque strap, second was with rubber mounts, torque strap, poly trans mount.

The nub is there but shallow(probably doesn't help much). Mounts were installed with nubs in the bracket holes. The above photo was after 5 passes at the track.

Very obvious the driver side mount did not hold the engine. The passenger side is still locked in. I cant find a solid trans mount anywhere on the web, I guess I have to make my own.

The trans mount is Energy Suspension polyurethane. The brackets are Schumacher.

The biscuit has sled out and the driver side engine is cocked aft.

Where can I get a solid transmission mount?