Search results for query: *

Nevermind, I found it. Mancini Racing - Throttle Kickdown Rod Connector

Thanks, I found some needed items. I may have missed it but does anyone have a link to a supplier and the part number for the slotted end for the kick down rod?

Resurrecting this thread in hopes someone has the answer. I've got a 66 Dart 270 that I've added a Edelbrock D4B intake and an Edelbrock AVS2 Carburetor #19044 500 CFM I'm having trouble finding the right parts for the kickdown linkage. Anyone have a link to what I need?

Unless I'm misunderstanding it, his formula is meant to be a way to calculate the right size carb for a specific engine based on how much air it pulls at the peak horsepower RPM. He may have it wrong but his theory of velocity through the venturi seems to make since. As he says in the video, a...

I was looking at this video from the How to and found it pretty enlightening. I'm not a physics major but I understand enough (at least I think) to see that this guy makes a lot of since. He explains a carb size calculation and one of the numbers is the RPMs where your engine hits peak power...

Guess I could go with a new intake. This one should fit.

Yea, the writeup says this. Bolts onto H-2300 bolt pattern and R2G manifold with a TD-P#2086.

Yea, It's never as easy as they claim in their sales pitch. Nothing ever is. They do supposedly sell a 2 bbl one though. This one

Those intakes have been elusive so far. The Fitech 2BBL EFI supposedly can support up to 400 HP. I don't expect that of course but the idea of having a clean electronic self adjusting tune sounds kewl. I'm hoping to find someone who's run one for first hand experience.

So I've got a kinda brand new 600 CFM carb and this intake. Bought em both a few years back for a 66 Dart GT that has since been sold. Any recommendations for heads? I'm thinking what ever is most common might be the least expensive. Again, not building a racer, just a little peppier Sunday driver.

Not really doing anything specific other than to just get a little more out of this engine. Nothing radical.

I have a 4 DR Dart 270. I have a 4BBL Torker intake but it will not fit this engine. The way I understand it there are differences from 65 to later years making a 4 bbl intake for this engine nearly impossible to find. What Are my upgrade options? I've heard that using later year heads will...

hmmm, think I found it. 1960-74 Mopar A / B / E Body AC and Heater Control Switch 3895790 | eBay

Did some looking yesterday but couldn't find one. Maybe my search terms were wrong.

The AC/heater box is broke up pretty bad and warped but I think some fiberglass repair can fix it. Now the vacumn line nipples are all broken off of the control unit. does anyone have any tips for fixing it?

I just found that front and rear on both sides of my 65 4dr is rusted clean through. Been sitting a few years. Something tells me rain water has found a way in!! GRRR I'll be ordering as soon as I know what all I need.

Thanks again!! If I'm lucky this will bring my fuel and Temp gauge back to life!!

Thanks, now I just need to figure out where that red wire was or should be connected. I guess it's time to lay on the floorboard with a flashlight. all future connections will be soldered unless there is a good reason not to. It's a freakin rats nest under that dash!!!

Thanks for your help! Every answer is appreciated! I have the IVR4 shown here. RTE limiter - rte

So if that wire is negative does it not still attach to ground at some point? Also in the attached pic I have the volt controller and condensor or what appears to be a condensor plugged back into the panel the way I found it. Someone had spliced in a red wire about 2' long with a round pin...

Ok, I thought the black wire would have been a ground. Guess not. So if you look at the attached schematic I've traced that line in green. It goes to one leg of the flasher solenoid then it just shows it running off of the page. I can only imagine why the copper trace fried. There are loose/bare...

Awesome!! Tell me how we make it happen!

I wonder if this one fits.

Any idea where that black wire runs to? It feeds that pin that the broken trace is connected to. The bulb on that is the high beam indicator and it also connects to the voltage controller.

Got any recommendations for the dome light?

So I took a fine wire wheel with my dremel and gently buffed that broken circuit. Has anyone ever had any luck at soldering that back together? If I do where am I supposed to tie that broken black wire back into? Also the pin for that wire is a bit loose. If I can successfully solder the strip...

I may see the reason for that wire. The circuit strip that goes to that terminal is broken and the wire for that circuit is cut at the wiring harness. See pics.

What a cluster! ;-) I think someone did some custom wiring. Well I thought. Looking at another pick on here I see that spade lug evidently does go in under the voltage controller? Now the red wire butt spliced in seemed to go nowhere unless I pulled it loose from something because I found it...

nevermind, I figured it out nevermind, I figured it out.

Ok, how to you remove the cigarette lighter housing ? I assume that and the nuts on the radio is hold that bezel in place?