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“Skim coat” only around ports or water passages. Never run beads. Only do “beads” at the head/block corners and China walls (if you don’t run the cork) When I pull intakes having used this method I see very little squeezed out beading anywhere. That includes thermostat housings and water pumps...

I’ve heard for years that a 413 when rev’d sounds real mean.

Go Denso as mentioned above. Believe all the members on this site who have done the upgrade and posted their results. You won’t regret it.

Maybe find a sacrificial wrench or two, torch the hell out of it and bend it to the curvature needed. I have my grandfathers tool chest and there are a bunch of wrenches he reworked for working on his cars/trucks through the decades, unfortunately none were Mopars. But I am able to use his...

^^^^^I’ve used their grease/paste on a cam from them a few years ago. Different than any other “cam lube” I’ve seen. Very sticky slick stuff, cam broke in fine.

I know you’ve hauled-a-plenty and have much experience but I would be a little concerned having that weight more to the rear of the axles as shown. Having the car more to the front and over the axles would be best. Be safe regardless

Isky RevLube Isky RevLube delivers unequaled protection for camshaft lobes, engine bearings, lifters, distributor drive gears, timing chains and gears, wrist-pins, rocker arms, valve stems and guides, and pushrod ends. It features a proprietary, heat-activated, extreme chemical that virtually...

You remove it to pour the oil in. Only takes a gentle squeeze and a little wiggle to remove from the cover. Not yanked. You’ll see when you get to installing them. Hit the hole with some sand paper so there’s no sharp edges (if needed)

The Moroso covers also have no baffles. I made some and they are rtv Ultra black sealed/secured in place and have not come undone in 5 years of use. Proper baffles in size and placed as if they were stamped steel covers. It can be done, if willing to improvise.

Setting aside what style of cooler is best, this isn’t about what is best. We all know what is best, the long gone OP’s question was had anyone tried one and what their results were. Focusing on the question as to whether these heat sink style contraptions work or not is the topic. There are...

Stamped aluminum seal fine if you use the right gaskets and don’t over tighten them. You have to pay attention when installing, and not tighten them as if they were steel of cast, just thinking you can crank the bolts tighter. I’ve got Moroso gold anodized vc’s and use Mr Gasket Ultra Seal...

When you get one of those lifetime warranty “so-called” garbage parts store remanufactured alternators or starters and it works with longevity like it should boy it sure is sweet! Sucks that some have problems. I haven’t, ever. Strange:D

It doesn’t have to be so complicated. Autozone still offers round back alternators in single/dual pulleys in various amperage, single wire, limited lifetime warranty. I ran a DL7001 (60 amp) for years on my 67 A100 (that called for a 46amp) with a new electronic replacement VR. All wiring in...

Freezer, little oil, bronze or soft metal hammer and tap it in. Simple

You’d be severely wasting your money on TF heads if that’s the cam you intend on using. If you wanted to buy aluminum heads at a later date just get a set of Speedmaster heads during their Black Friday sale.

If you know the specs you’re after for what you’re trying to do you first look to see if a cam with a part number is readily available, such as listed in a cam companies catalog. Contrary to what many may say, it actually can be done. All cams come off a rack, a bin, a box, a tote, a shelf...

Might have to give this a try in my van!:lol:

I like mine, they are a good looking tire IMO. I ran Cooper Cobras before. Just don’t care for the blocky tread and blocky transitions as I mentioned. These Vitours are the only tires in these sizes with a more modern style tread as well.

Actual user reviews are what you want: I have these tires on the rear of my van, 255/60-15 which are V-rated. Mounted on a set of 15x8 Keystone Classics. Bought them directly from here: https://www.performanceplustire.com/app/tires-for-sale/vitour-tires Tires arrived in two days, i figured...

I run an American made Carter P4594 electric pump along with an NOS Fram HPG-1 right off the tank. Fuel line from pickup to carb is 3/8”, no fuel delivery issues running the 1/4 mile at 114mph. I run a billet Holley regulator even though with that particular pump it’s not really required...

I use (and have used) a few Derale fans both fixed and clutch style. I go by what their instructions recommend for clearance. And it applies to any blade (flex fans excluded: wouldn’t use one if you paid me) made by anyone else. But, when you don’t have the room to put the blade at the ideal...

Try 20 psi with those tires for a start, do your burnout till you start to see smoke but no more, launch off idle to flash the converter to your 3200 stall. And see what it does.

To bad the Chrysler engineers through the decades never thought of that. :BangHead::rolleyes:

My suggestion would be to buy this book: Step by step approach, this book has helped me tremendously in getting my van to hook and launch consistently. Having something like this or similar as an additional guide at your disposal along with other sources, advice etc along with having someone...

You can get a good chunk of $$$ for that M1 intake if you don’t price it too low, no need to under price, I bet you could sell it here quite easily, especially if it’s unmodified or undamaged. You may find a good used Edelbrock RPM or Air Gap if you keep your eyes peeled. Might end up being an...

:icon_fU::icon_fU::icon_fU::icon_fU::icon_fU::icon_fU::icon_fU::icon_fU::icon_fU: :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

in a nut shell: Sounds like you have a stout motor and for what you want to do with it is you might need to de-tune it some. Aside from the high CR, (what fuel are you running atm?) unknown cam and converter but knowing the gear you have, the weight of the car and how you want to run it, for...

That’s what I thought. If I was out in my shop of horrors and I wanted to run a PCV and had to have vacuum for a brake booster I would either: 1) drill the back wall of the intake plenum oh about an inch or so (probably less) in the flat just below the carb flange and (preferably) thread it...

Aren’t we talking a Double Pumper? What’s the model number? Where’s the big port on the front of the base plate?