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That's about what happened to Bandamere mete in Colorado. I don't think the development caused the closure, I think the land is more valuable to developers now that the development sprung up across the interstate from it. My parents bought land and built a house a couple miles from an...

Try an eraser. I have not done it myself but I have seen several videos of an eraser like ball on the end of a stick in a drill motor.

Or the wiper switch's park cir is not functioning correctly. Show a photo of the motor if possible

Tie rod ends are pretty basic.

Note that the second photo there is a plastic guard above the mechanism. It is there to protect the mechanism

I get it. Just offering a lower priced alternative.

Go on the web and find photos of what you are looking for then post

So if you get a 22" SB rad and recore it with 3 row and have the in and/or outlet tubes changed to the correct size. The only thing would be the part number which on some rads are a flat plate stamped with the part number and soldered to the top cover You would have a BB rad.

The part that breaks is the fingers that spread when the (metal in this case) pin insert is pushed into the center of the post.

How many rows does the big block rad have. I know the inlet and / or outlet tubes are larger in diameter than a SB

Out local city recycling says... "When in doubt, throw it out." Tie rod ends are cheap, replace them.

How supple are the wires?

You should talk with the ins agent before doing anything. And remember the ins co is going to try to pay you the least they can get you to agree to. Unless things have changed in CA I the last 18 years. If the damage was not your fault you go to whatever repair shop you want to and get 1...

?????

I recently posted a link to someone who is selling a functional pin. 67 68 backup light actuator pin. Not mine.

I'm thinking natural, mine (67 dart) is surface rusted uniformly. No signs of paint or other finish.

I would seperate the exhaust ports to be like on a SB Ford

Look at mc master carr. They have all kinds of things like that. The ends are crimped on like a wire connector

Perhaps if you close the 3 registers it allows for some airflow otherwise the coil could ice up?

Nice find. If you get a bug up your butt to take the registers apart to clean them. Take 1,000,000 photos. Asked me how I know! BUT I did get it all back together! LOL... The guy had only one job... Must have been a monday

Might apply to some models but not A Bodies I can say with the top up the inside of my 67 stays nice and warm. Now with the top down and -10 deg F outside, that's another thing!

Did you look around on TTIs website? Call them Monday. They may have moved it. Way back machine to the rescue.

It is from a 11/66 build.

There was a post about the same thing in the last year, may have been a different year but all the same procedures apply.

It's really about following the traces on the board. If the trace on one side of a bulb goes to a screw it's the ground side of the bulb.

That's why I bought it originally, it probably fits 9" brakes but not 10" or disk. The 618-101 fits 10" disk or drum.

Red dots are the cir board trace the feeds 12v to the gauge lights Look for similar on the other cir board. Or post another photo of the other board If you are changing the turn signal and brake warning lamp follow the same basic paths, one side of the lamp will go to a ground / screw...

No caps on mine. 67 dart. Just find the 2 holes in the chrome straps and the nuts will be in the holes. Be sure to take all the hardware (studs bolts nuts washers. Etc.)

5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2? bring a set Deep socket. 1/4 drive would be easiest but 3/8 probable would work too. There is no physical attachment from register to heater/ AC box just foam seal. The hole in the chrome strap is 0.70" dia and 1.5 deep. You DO NOT remove the chrome strap, it is...

I don't believe there is any difference. Even the AC and heat only use the same core. AC Heat only