Search results for query: *

Yessir, Mr. Green, sir. :BangHead: Now only two weeks of driving left - unless it snows before then - so I have plenty of time until car back on road sometime in March. I for one will not hack up my rad support (to install anything wider than 22 inches). Totally unnecessary. Nonetheless I...

Well I found a third source (in Canada) - the Wrench Monkey - for the Spectra unit and, like Avatar, only $218. I even went thru ordering process but, alas, 3 days later, I get notified that this unit is discontinued. (sigh). So back to other options. Of course not a panic as this is beginning...

Still waiting for response from Amazon and <www.partsavatar.ca> regarding availability of Spectra Premium no. CU527 radiator.

Common sense says you cannot install a 26" rad unit in a 22" opening - unless your name is Red Green. :eek:

The frame opening is only good to a 22" er.

All good info. Fans are only effective at low vehicle speeds - est. under 40 mph. It is those hot days and climbing uphill and even over 60 mph that get the gauge moving up. Yes, core may well be partially restricted, but our only rad shop very expensive - est $450. to $500. for a 19 inch re...

I have the oem 19-inch core unit and it cannot handle ambient temps over 95 f. I could have the core tested and maybe replaced but am also considering upping to a 22-inch core unit. Of course the inlet and outlet pipes need to be in same location for both cores. Has anyone done this swap and...

Take care of any seepage issues then prime and paint (cast grey). There are also good, durable paints to protect the cover as well and some very close to the (likely) anodized gold color. Midland booster same color (if not black).

I agree with the 'memory conversion' but, value in kms has to be multiplied by 0.6 (not 6.0). But, to be perfect, the value must be 0.62137199. :realcrazy:. (lol). It's the same as speaking two languages - as we are well aware in this country. Also the same when dealing with weather stats...

I'm sure I 'hi-jacked' a newer thread about dash decals but stumbled upon this one. GUESS WHAT! I finally found a link to what I seek. :canada: Place in Harrowsmith, ON. has decals and more. Go to <www.premiumdashdecals.com>. Needle will still move as it always did and ODO will still...

I 'bumped into' this thread since I am considering upgrading my 19-incher to a 22. Mine only gets too warm when climbing in 90+ degree weather and still OEM. Not sure what your issue could be with replacement rad.

Nice looking setup - close to post '73 OEM but very pricey. Would be great replacement for the detached (unused) shoulder belt that lays above door side glass. What do we do after this? Air bags? :eek:

That Intellitronix unit may look cool but, likely pricey and to me, a bit too 'Buck Rogersish' on a 52 year old classic. Unless I was preparing a 'no $ spared' showpiece / retro-mod for Barrett-Jackson, I would simply restore oem cluster and put saved $ into other details - starting with...

Have you considered litigation? Is there a Police report?

I've had dozens of cast-iron or aluminum/plastic cyls. over past several decades and none ever leaked. Only issue has been one or two wearing out inside and rear seal weeps down firewall. With the pre- '80-ish cast iron units. the large black seal must fit perfectly around reservoir...

If you find a donor block, take the fastener/vent with it. Also, the flare fittings so attached may be good enough to clean up and re-use (if not rusted in place).

There was another thread I replied to about a week ago that claimed same gasket malady. I suggested a perfectly smooth and level housing surface can be achieved by removing unit and dressing it using med - fine emery, or similar. Invert unit on flat (glass, plexi) surface, similar as when...

:lol: - - Thanks for the Monday morning chuckle, guys, some of us needed it. S'funny Moderator hasn't stepped in. :wtf: (what the flock!?)

Aluminum also dents easily but will polish up nice. Rust staining could be transferred from painted metal area where attached to, plus the metal screws and holes. Anyone with the aluminum wheel-well trims, especially when car has seen some winters, can attest to proof of corrosion.

Yes, the '73 and later A-body 'sliders'. You can use A or E or B-body (11") rotors of that era.

Interesting combination and you claim factory. I am aware of what B5 looks like but not (exterior) B3. My Signet (avatar) is B7 and identical inside, so tops of doors same as exterior and perfect match for vinyl panels, dash and pad. How much else has to be re-painted and replaced inside...

Friend had 383 - 4 Bbl. 4-spd. '66 Satellite - sold it a couple decades ago for only 5 g's. That was first car I'd seen with the (front of the) console tach. Feature I liked the most was 0 - 6000 rpm's - - feature I liked the least was that you had to look way down to see it - and bulb inside...

Like, agree and thanks.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I am sure they do as all my dozens of OEM pieces over several decades had the washer - likely to reduce friction. I use something like Copaslip / Nev'r Seize on threads and all contact points - particularly where metal parts of shoes rub against backing plate.

:eek: Wow. Over $300. (CDN). ( would be $ exchange plus shipping, duties and taxes). If paying that much I think I'd opt for the tach - also rare but still out there.

I would suggest to anyone getting a new or reman MC to check the contact surface of housing and dress it up with med. emery on hard flat surface. One in picture looks a bit rough.

Never had any concerns using a high quality light engine oil, ATF or good additive such as Duralube. Cable removes from top so oil can be squirted in or gently applied as shoved back in. Greases can tend to be too thick or gummy and cause irregular rotation inside casing - which can, as a...

Since this thread is on the topic of rearview mirrors, I hope it's okay to ask simple question relating to right side door (rearview) mirror - in lieu of creating separate thread. Here goes (fingers crossed). First I will start by agreeing with (inside) rearview adjustment options. I have...

The '70 - '72 E-body rotors also 11.75" and '73 - '74's were 11.98". Shouldn't they work? My A-body Haynes lists '73 - '74 A-body rotors as 10.98" and that must be a 'typo' since I have '74 Duster rotors on my Challenger and they are identical to OEM - but thicker - (is why I used them).

I read only to this post (no.14) as I'd seen enough. Picked up on that 'simple 360 build' early on and then it got to the Super Street (10.90) level pretty quick. Lots of good advice, though mostly trying to convince you to keep it 'sane'. Building any Mopar primarily to beat a friend's Chevy...