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if you go hydraulic, go with the Malwood under dash kit....Amazing kit and simplifies things quite a bit

Ignition is changed already, Pertronix one wire hot distributor

My wiring has been like all of them, hacked and jimmy rigged by all the previous owners. Any recommendations for a full wiring harness? I don't need it to have an alternator regulator harness, I am one wire hot alternator. I don't need wiring for ballast, happy with just hot coil. Can...

Ok good, because that is what I did and then asked.... Did not want to admit it until I knew that was the fix lol

I am a little mind boggled.... Bought Spicer 7260 u joints, they won't actually fit in because the 'meat' in the center of the joint is hitting if that makes any sense? Does one dremel it a bit so it will clear? It is a miniscule amount but it will not allow it to go in. Not talking about...

If anyone wants a clutch that feels like even easier than a new Hyundai effort wise, hydraulic using the Malwood under dash pedal system is amazing. Slightly off topic but lots of people swap to auto as we get older, this should buy some alot more years

It just looks unsettling, but as per everything I read, and witnessed with mine the gap vanishes once its bled and in use. Meaning it would be way too tight if installed without gap, and leaving no room for disc wear.

Appreciate the info guys, tackling it this week.. Yes it is an A833, I bought Redline fluid, specifically the one without additive as I read the one with additive is bad for the brass synchronizers. I did not realize that that synthetic would be an issue however... I will have to re think...

Just finished my 4 speed swap, and need to install the carpet I bought from rock auto... Just their generic one but made sure it was for 4 speed... I assume the shape is different for the tunnel hump? Anyway, need help getting my head around install. Do I cut out the shifter opening but it...

Just a collector leak, easy fix. Update on the Malwood system with Hydramax. Works great in driveway and backlane testing. As far as pedal feel and effort, with actual seat installed it is like a brand new Hyundai for example effort wise. Very pleased so far.

After reading this I am really liking my decision to use the 400hp mcleod clutch on my recent 4 speed swap into my 440 Duster, nice circuit breaker

Funny you say that, I forgot I had the quart size one that used to fill my ford trans years ago.... Oops... Yes I thought the fitting was a good idea and it worked really well. Started the car, put just the rear in the air and rowed through the gears. Weird noise on the passenger side, like...

Just filled trans in car, I’m sure this has been done before but this was my $10 idea to make it a snap and not spill a drop

Original 4 speed car or auto?

Sooooo, latest is the reverse rod will hit how I ran the x pipe… can’t win for losing but it’s a fun game none the less

Pedal feels very good. I was pushing it sitting on a milk crate as my car is still half apart, so should be even easier with a proper seat. I would say on par with a fox mustang without the changing arc of the quandrant. There is a slot in the firewall for a factory clutch rod (I believe)...

What width? I see several options and googling makes it worse lol

Are you routed crank to PS only, or water pump as well?

Anyone have an idea of what belt size? I assume I run a string to get my measurement, but curious if someone remembers what they used to get me something to compare to

I was reading through the comments a bit. I get the reluctance of having the master under the dash, but for idiots like me it saved sooo much fab time with making the AP or similar kit mount correctly with enough backing for flex on the firewall, the math on the pedal travel, pedal stop, etc...

I just installed mine on the weekend and can confirm there is no interference. I drilled a hole through the oblong body plug which I think is for a factory clutch rod for the pressure hose, lines up perfectly with the master feed fitting.

Dumb question.... I am running an internally regulated power master or something alternator, and the factory wiring harness is taped off to the side. I need to move my firewall mounted regulator to mount my hydraulic clutch reservoir, but can I just omit it completely at this point, do those...

I ground the ear on the engine to clear, and the header is about 1/8th inch away. She is tight. Again, I did not lift my engine much because its creates a whole other mess of geometry everywhere else. I am worried with what little I did that i won't clear my brake system against the valve cover...

Cleared ok after I shimmed up engine a bit, still close against the header but not touching is not touching

For the money these things cost it is beyond unacceptable in my opinion. Of course I wait until Friday night to try it and they are closed for the weekend. I cannot fathom how that leaves QC

Here’s a snag I didn’t expect. The pulley for the pump is not even close to being true. The outside is warped even worse than the inside and is actually higher in one spot. That would be fine is it was not also warped side to side. The shaft is dead straight. Terrible video but what the heck??

Yes that’s exactly what’s called for, but seeing it installed is unsettling for lack of a better word

Ok so ready to testing but something does not look right. I measured my air gap about 10 times. With it installed, there is a space between the face of the bearing and the fingers of about .145 using a piece of metal as a feeler gauge. While that seems correct it looks cavernous to the eye. Is...

If the pickup biscuit is thicker it would for sure change the amount of shims, but not sure if the studs are oriented the same. I had zero shims before so I am just feeling my way into this now that I am changing to power Borgeson. I have zero intention of changing the actual mount, there is so...

Well clear is clear, but this is too close lol… I’ll shim a touch more