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The trick will be finding the,right spline size, with longer threads. I think there have been several threads and stickys about longer studs, both here and b-bodies. Search time. And I think Dorman has listings of the dimensions of their studs on their website. Edit: it makes a difference if you...

Don't buy Eagle. Scat or (preferably) Molnar. Youll thank me later.

To be honest... I'd like to see more backspace, 4 or 4 1/4. Closer to the spring, farther from the fender. The wrong backspace can make a wheel almost useless. (I know, I have three pairs that way). I fully realize there's virtually no choice in 5 on 4 anymore. That said, a conservative tire...

I'm running 1 1/2 on this. 4" studs.

If the McCreary's aren't too old to be used, (BIG if!) $250 is a reasonable price for the tires, so the wheels are free. Have you priced tires lately? A nice wide pair of T/A radials is $500. I'm looking at about $2500 for a new set of six on my avatar car.

Those McCrearys on the rallyes..... if they rubbed his springs, that easily fixed on your car....spacers! I have spacers on three of my racecars. They dont scare me, at all! I made most of mine from steel or billet, with the center hole bored to fit the axle flange. If you want or need spacers...

I seriously doubt a 15x10 with 4" backspace will fit anything but a pickup truck, without lifting the *** end of the car to the moon.

Yet 383 cars smoked 325/350/360hp chevelles regularly. We won't talk about the L78s (real big blocks, lol. 375hp rating in chevelles/camaros, same motor in a 65 vette...425hp) The 325hp 396 stock was a DOG.

That's 400 lbs lighter than my b-body with me in it.....mand hopefully 500lbs more than my Opel, lol

Agree. Theoretically, a 74 360 has 10 more hp and tq than a high compression 340 Nope, ain't buying that for a minute.

This might have been mentioned somewhere in ten pages, but the 360 has one huge advantage..... an overdrive auto trans bolts right up. N/A for a big block. But I voted for the 383 anyway.

I'm sure it's in here somewhere, but what does it weigh now, with you in it?

If they hit the leaf springs, that's an easy fix: spacers. If they hit the fenders, no fix for that. (Theoretically, if they hit his springs, he had too much backspace. Four inches? Too much? That's hard to believe.) And at this point in time, I wouldn't spend ten cents for 14" tires or wheels.

Allen's are cool, and grade eight...IF you have room for a wrench or socket. You don't. As above, either a six point or twelve point reduced head header bolt. A twelve point is smaller, but you can't use an open end wrench on it.

5200 was rated horsepower peak for a 383 magnum, not the redline. 440 magnum hp was rated at 4600. Do you think it quit at 4700? Original Sixpack motors rated at 4700 were failing when owners spun them to 6000 in 69, so Mopar beefed them up in 70. (and i dont for a minute believe a stock 74 360...

Without good heads, a stroker won't get you much. Good heads, decent cam, improved compression can get you 325-350 out of a stock stroke 318. And in case you were wondering, John's 318s, stocker type, make somewhere around 400-500 depending on stock eliminator or super stock.

LISTEN to GTX John!! He's been going very fast for 50 years, and still is. If you want to stroke a 318, a 360 crank is NOT the way I would do it. For really high performance application, get a 4" all forged kit FOR a 318. For budget street use, cast crank kit with hyper pistons would be fine...

Almost forgot. If you have an open, but a ratio you can live with, you could get a power Trax lock right to put in your open carrier. You wouldn't even have to mess with pulling the carrier out. If you don't like the ratio you have, a new suregrip and gearset is the way to go.

If you want a suregrip, assuming it's open now, you would have to change the carrier anyway, whether it's a one-off 2.45, or any other ratio. And then add the gear ratio of your choice. Like said above, it could be a completely wasted sure grip (known to have happened), but it's highly unlikely.

Into the rearend situation, nothing. Merely that cars perform best at sea level or below. Ask somebody how their carburated car runs in Denver.

I have one very similar to that, except no cement floor (yet). Three cars in it at the moment, and room for more. I would really like to get a couple carriage doors for it, after I put in the floor.... and a lift.

Very little snow here at 115° in the summer (I've seen 123° on the back porch, in the shade). Heating the garage is not a problem. The sun seems to kill them first. And I've still got a fallen tree here to take care of too (16" trunk). Thankfully it didn't fall on the house, or our boundary fence.

The mustang rear could probably be used, as is. The explorer rear uses a long axle and a short one, and needs to be narrowed (probably cheaper than a mustang). You don't mess with flanges, you take a section out of thelong axle side, and use another short axle. You would probably have to...

I bought a couple from Costco when they were on sale, but I haven't put them up yet. Trees and bushes in the way, lots of wind, and my garages are behind two greenhouse projects for the gf.

Way, WAY too many.

What I would do first (after the GREAT advice to clean it first!) is pull the cover off, and actually see if it has a suregrip, and what ratio it is. Then put some appropriate fresh fluid in it, and decide what you wanna do. I agree, the 8 1/4 should be fine, with a sure grip added, and a...

Love the Bahama Yellow. I have a 69 runner in Bahama too. Dr Diff gears in the dana?

We weren't, really. I was just trying to make the point that weight savings mods make more sense on a lighter car. I'm not gonna put a set of aluminum heads on a 318 Imperial to save weight.

When I look under the hood of a b-body, I expect to see a big block, if I see a small block, I'm disappointed. When I look under the hood of an A Body, I'm hoping to see a big block, if I see a small block, it's expected.

That kinda depends on the platform, imo. Saving 100 lbs on a 4800 lb C-body, big deal. Saving 100 lbs on a 2500 lb bracket car (or street car, if you can get to that weight), BIG deal!