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I've noticed this too on my car when I did the swap. Easily solved with a few turns on each sleeve.

I would look for early dakotas and jeep xjs for gears and or a suregrip. Most have 3.55s, but you can also find 3.07, 3.21, 3.73, and 3.90

I'm curious to see what you find. I had this exact problem with my car, shorted the terminals on the starter relay to start the car and proceeded with my day, never having the problem again.

Thanks guys, that solves that.

So is the cutoff 96 and up? If so, problem solved.

I believe that is for the LA360 with the bigger imbalance.

Researching parts for my 5.9 swap into my dart which has a 904. Looking to keep the stock converter. Since the b&m flex plate is out of production, what are my options? I've heard some of the 5.9 magnum flex plates can be made to work (97 and up??) with a neutral balance 904 converter. Looking...

Sway away and firm feel have a good selection of 1”+ bars

Doin’ it myself at the moment. Likely 3.21s

Remember that a 4bbl and intake can be done for 2-3 bucks total, whereas gears and high stall converter is a 1200+ dollar upgrade

And actually getting 4 mpg. Joebob from that thread earlier this week would simply melt like the witch in the wizard of Oz.

Wake up babe, new analysis just dropped!

Happens to the best of us…

It might be on the fast idle cam? You don't need that bracket as long as your throttle cable is connected to the hole under the big hole, which provides the correct ratio.

Check to see if a strong stream of gas shoots out as soon as you crack the throttle open.

It will be noticeable, especially on the top end. My car gained a good amount of power up above 3k and I can take it well into triple digits pretty damn quick for what it is. That said, it will still not be very impressive. Worth it, yeah if you can do it for dirt cheap, but I wouldn’t get your...

888 is a slant 6 bar. (.83”) There is no front or back. You have to have the adjuster all the way out so you can move the blade/socket around to the right position.

Just watch out for that hose and don’t let it anywhere near nice paint.

There’s nothing I hate more than spending money and dealing with other people who have no real interest in helping me. That’s why I took things into my own hands and found awesome people through this forum and local meets for advice.

sounds like someone i know… A rec from other folks in the classic car world that know what is good from experience is the way to go. The unfortunate reality is that most shops will charge too much and still do it wrong. Your best bet in this situation is likely a dedicated alignment shop and...

Yeah, if you wired it to the sender that's no bueno...sounds like the fusible link ain't a link anymore.

Can’t say about the coil from this info. Sounds like your digital meter isn’t working right.

I was faced with this decision a couple months back. Ended up going with the 73-76 arms. The adapters probably work alright, they just really aren’t ideal. The 73 arms in addition to the different ball joint are much stronger anyhow.

Is it not cranking, cranking but not firing, or cranking and firing but not catching?... I'm confused by your wording. Check to make sure you have spark while cranking first.

Both, and the whole shape of the arm is different. The big arm is beef when you look at it next to the small arm.

This confirms you need little ball joints and 67-72 arms.

I have sbp 73-76 rotors. Lets me go to 73-76 front end and keep my wheels. Anyways. Looks like the dude has a KH setup (you can see the hard line on the caliper in the first pic), suggesting that he needs little ball joint 67-72 arms.

I would adjust it properly—there’s lots of info on here about that.

Power or manual? If power have you gone through the adjustment procedure on the box?

Make sure choke is adjusted closed enough. Also, make sure that your accelerator pump is working property and actually dumping gas when you pump the pedal before starting. (Make sure the float bowl has fuel in it anyhow)