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The bushing is behind the front seal. So it’s the same place.

Problem solved After a particularly hot drive, I had had enough, so I shotgunned the problem. It is now fixed but I don’t know exactly what the cause was. The changes: I reduced the water pump to crank ratio from 1.3:1 to 1.1. This is what I think solved it, getting me out of cavitation. I...

Do you mean 8 thousand ohms? 8 ohms would be your problem….

3.21s on a 25” tire, so around 3000 and up

35 Mech + 20 vacuum advance = 55 degrees

No AC

360 magnum, early LA front cover New stock type 8 vane water pump Pulley setup is overdriven around 1.3 4 row brass radiator 5 blade clutch fan Standard type 180 thermostat Lower hose does not appear to suck shut. When hot, there is a 30-50 degree drop across the rad. Runs fine in...

Stock electronic. Easy and bullet proof. Use an older made in USA box.

69 Dart, 5.9 magnum, early timing cover and water pump with outlet on drivers side. Current radiator is a little gummed up and not up to the task of summer (the worst of which is yet to come). I have 2 local and very cheap options: Option 1: '68 b body radiator (22"), with 4 cores Option 2: 3...

You don't need a bypass other than a big charge wire. With a one wire you simply connect directly to the post on the starter relay or the battery positive itself, so you won't be charging through the bulkhead (the stock harness charge wire).

Which rear end do you have?

Almost all of the early dakotas and early jeep XJs have 3.55s that you can use. 3.91s seem to be rarer

I know a guy who would part with them for a burrito and a simple favor

Squeeze all the way, insert into the top hole, and then let it expand into place as you catch the bottom with a screwdriver through the bottom mount hole. Then insert the bolt.

You simply have to pull the coupler off the splines however you can. Some come off by hand, some are more stubborn. You can gentle hammer on it without hurting anything. You may also have some luck with a pry bar. It shouldn’t be too hard.

I tried leaving it uncapped on my street car and what I found is that when it was warmed up, I would get a strong raw gas smell upon letting off the pedal. The other three vents are plenty. On a race car, sure.

Not true.

An evap canister if you have one. If you don’t, it is completely unnecessary and you should leave it capped.

As far as I’m aware, all 1406s are sold with electric choke. 1405 is the manual choke variant, which can be converted.

Eye ball it to get close then check and go little by little. Having it be totally exact is not critical.

People put all sorts of things in there, including atf. I would just use generic ps fluid.

Check fluid level?

No one ever said that double adjustable shocks weren't absolutely any better than non-adjustables. This is clear. But the marginal improvement relative to the money spent is minimal compared to the other things you can spend money on. The 1000 bucks spent on top notch shocks can also get stall...

Ideally yes.

Check to see if the 5 pin connector on that side is fully plugged in and that the pins are intact. Also cleaning the ground contacts on that side is a good idea. Replacing the board sounds like a waste of money. Unless the traces are severely damaged, nothing isn’t fixable. Also, if you can’t...

I read that with the accent. Surprise it’s not vented to the frame rail. I think a vented cap is not a bad idea. It really shouldn’t smell.

^^^Yes It’s ridiculous to suggest anything before knowing an actual number…it could be anything from 150 to 210 psi…

It's for a 67 hipo 273. I don't believe there is a published flow rating, but it should be in the neighborhood of a little under 500 cfm.

But flat tops with J heads definitely won't get you there...