Search results for query: *

Thanks for the info! The new piggyback is a double oversized bolt where the old one I took off was only single oversized. Any idea if these oversized bolts are supposed to be self tapping or would I need to drill and tap anyways just to get this slightly larger piggyback to fit?

Also I was thinking of using thread sealer or JB weld on the large bolt of the piggyback plug that initially goes into the threads and then using Teflon tape on the small bolt that goes in. This would just be temporary until I replace the pan.

That’s it. I haven’t taken it off yet but picked up the below bolts that all say they fit the Duster. From left to right we have a standard, piggyback, single oversized with magnet and double oversized. Not sure which one to use yet.

Thanks for the input! Very true about it being higher up. Let me fix the drain plug first and clean down the engine. The rear main seal seems like it could be it and I’d rather it be that than a trans leak. I won’t be tearing the whole car apart haha I mean if it doesn’t leak a little bit of oil...

Shouldn’t that small part be able to thread all the way in? It’s leaking down those threads but I tried to tighten by hand and can’t get it to budge. The right way would be either to re-thread the oil pan or just buy a new pan, right?

So I’ve been meaning to tackle this for awhile but I’m having trouble figuring out the second leak. I know the one leak is coming from a poorly done piggyback oil drain plug. I’ve had the car less than a year and noticed that the drain plug is halfway out and won’t tighten. So I’ve bought a new...

Thanks, looks like I’ll need to brush up on a few YouTube tutorials on how to do it…wish I had an air/fuel ratio gauge but maybe that’s something I’ll try installing this winter.

Thanks, looks like I’ll be pulling the plugs next weekend. I believe the choke did fully open but maybe I’ll check again to see if anything is sticking. If it is too rich is that typically adjusted through the air/fuel mixture screws?

It seemed to be very dark grey. It was a hot day yesterday and it didn’t start happening until after it was warmed up. Then it continued throughout the day. Also went to a car show and it happened on startup too but I think the engine was still warm. My idle also was rough when this was...

Hey Mattax, Advancing the timing can’t cause the car to start having some smoke come out the tailpipes right? Finally felt like it was running well but now I noticed that it seems like I might be burning oil or something is clogged causing it to smoke? I’m still tinkering with getting the idle...

Thanks again! Looks like 5 degrees made all the difference. One last question I had is that with the vacuum advance connected and the car in Park the idle is right in the 860-900 range. Is that a little too high? Sounds good and runs well. Especially when in drive and my foot on the brake.

I think I got lucky all! I advanced the timing to 5 degrees from 0, tuned the idle to 750 with advance disconnected, hooked the advance backup and it now starts better and no more smoke or popping sound coming out of carb. Thank you everyone for your wisdom

Can both manifest themselves as a small plume of smoke that comes out of the carb right when I start the car? Sounds an awful lot like a *pop* noise…more so than when a car backfires. If you’re not right over the engine you wouldn’t even hear it or notice it.

Thanks! All things I’m going to eventually check. Figured I’d start with what I was most comfortable with like plugs and cleaning the carb. Timing seemed the next easiest to me.

Thanks for this. Super helpful. Now was I supposed to cap the vacuum advance when I was getting my intial timing? Or is that only if my car is stalling out when the hose is disconnected? I just disconnected the hose and both the hole on the carb and vacuum advance were open.

Wow! Thanks so much for all that information. It really helps me to better understand what happening with my timing and RPMs. I’m going to try advancing it a bit today. As a newbie to distributors as well is the below circled bolt the one I need to loosen in order to turn the distributor?

Thank you for all the good info. I think I like either your 1st or 3rd option the best. Would you happen to recommend a specific performance distributor? In the meantime I’ll try advancing it slowly to see if that helps the small amount of backfire happening through the carb.

Very new to timing and just bought a digital light to try it out. At idle (after it’s warmed up) my RPMs were roughly 780 and drops about 100 when putting it into drive. The timing was at 0 degrees. At around 2500rpm the timing is at 18 degrees. This is all with vacuum advance disconnected. 0...

Alright, so I’ve made it to the timing portion of your list. First time doing this but I watched a bunch of videos and bought a nice digital timing light (that shows RPMs too). Going to try it out tomorrow. From what I read on this forum it seems like for a stock 318 it’s right around 6-8 BTDC...

I wanted to put new brakes on the front and I’ve become so accustomed to just putting the year/make into Rockauto and going with the parts they offer and say fit. But since it didn’t originally have front disc brakes how do you all go about figuring this out? Do I take them off and try measuring...

I did buy it. Thanks for all the input. It’s arriving Wednesday and I’ll update you all once I have the engine apart. The VIN on the title and on the car starts with RM. I’m sure it’s had pieces replaced and that paint color doesn’t seem available in 74’. I’m not sure if it’s just my area but...

And the final piece of the story is that in the late 90’s my dad and I had an opportunity to buy a numbers matching 1974 roadrunner with a 440 and only 15,000 documented miles from the original owner (guy worked for corporate GM). He only wanted $17k but we just didn’t have the money. This would...

Forgot to add it’s a 318 2bbl and he has the rear seat cushion just took it off to look for rust…there is def Bondo in some of the panels Few more pics:

So I just got introduced to this forum because I bought a 74 dart. Well I had to sell one car to add a car and the car I sold the guy wants to do a partial trade for his 74 RR numbers matching. It would be for a value of $2500. Engine has an issue with oil pressure so he’s having trouble getting...

Thank you for the info! So it has some coolant in it but maybe only 1/2 quart (cold engine). I see that it looks like it can handle up to 2 quarts. Should I fill it a bit or does it need all that space for the potential hot coolant? Radiator itself if full.

Alright so had some more time today and bought an infrared heat gun. The Block never got above 190 degrees but the top coolant hose also never felt full (it was hot, 125 degrees but I could squeeze it, I guess I thought it would be so full of coolant I couldn’t squeeze it) I think I have a...

Thank you both! I took a few more pictures of the engine and interior. It’s raining where I am so once it stops I’ll pull it out of the garage and take some full shots of it. Currently just barely fits in the garage because I hadn’t planned on getting another car anytime soon but just kind of...

Thanks for all the great info. I guess I'll need to find where I put my compression kit. I bought it from a guy I believe was the second owner. He's had it for 10 years and was in his 70's. He kept every receipt and had 100's of spare parts that he'd pick up wherever he went. He only drove it to...

So I bought a 73’ Gold Duster. I believe it’s a 318 4bbl (still trying to confirm it’s not a 340 because it was cloned to look like it). I noticed that the air cleaner was scalding hot after it had been sitting for about 15 minutes and took some pictures. From a Reddit forum it looks like I...