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refacing the pump surface would be an issue.

If you use the original cap it is already sized to your block. Take it off , Fix it and put it back on, If the bearing looks good reuse it.

Take the cap to a Machine shop and have it filled with spray weld. Then have it drilled, threaded and reface the pump surface. I would bolt and torque it to an old block we have when welding it. Spray weld is the correct way . You won't even see where it was welded. And leave the engine in...

What model and year Duster. Is it a 70-71 rally dash car

Maybe a puddle running out from under the car.

Big block mopar.

PM me your address I'll send you one if you can't get one locally

What? No pictures so we can agree to disagree. Lets see it what did you buy?

$20 plus ride from north east Pa. Or come and get them for $20. Danielsville Pa. 18038. due to length I believe they will have to go fedex but I can try usps

You have a 904 shift lever. Also the throttle cable bracket is for a 2bbl.

They sell those lines on the Innerweb! Do a search

Looks like it already had an upgrade replacement timing set on it at one time. Step it up a notch more and get a true roller for it. And while your in there. A Mother Thumper Cam and a header.

Stop the next Snap-on tool truck you see . He'll probably have one of those repair kits on the truck.

Chrome don't get you home.

Replace the center pin with a taller one from a local spring shop.

If I were you I would use the after market and sell the original to me . My car won't care. LOL

In line with cash with any payment method, zip is 18038 for shipping. Thanks Steve

All Dusters are welded on like the ones pictured but they can be bolted in place. The 70-72 Darts are bolted on. You will need these to attache the buckets to the fender

Here is pictures of mine. Everything is repairable except the trunk lid. I'll be looking for an NOS piece to replace it.

To take the rod out pull the switch on . Then push the button on the side that has the spring behind it and pull again. If the knob is off the rod you need a new one . The fastener for the switch is a large chrome nut

Ya wanna sell it. LOL. welcome

squeeze it and put a little dielectric grease on it. If its shot get another one.

any year mopar spindle for small disc brakes.

Is that a return style filter? How many hose nipples does it have? You want to keep the fuel moving and not dead ending it at the carburetor under pressure.

If it made it to the pan it will never get past the screen. But if it went down the hole you should see it in the pump drive, If in there it cannot get out. If you see it and can get it, Try some red sticky grease on the ball of an antenna. It will unscrew from the fender pretty easy, Sounds...

I know your looking for a miracle. But its not worth the trouble. Junk Pile

Put a ball on and your problems are solved. The only place those handles work is on a B&M star shifter. Those handles caused many missed second gear shifts due to getting hung up in the reverse cross over gate. You always end up pulling towards yourself. But with a Ball and your Hand on top...

For every make , model and year of all american cars would be mind boggling. 62-72 mopar muscle car years would be pretty easy.

Sounds to me like your going to be looking at Ford parts on your car . This could get costly depending on what will adapt and how you would do it for drum brakes. I Know 1968 Mustang rotors switch small bolt disc to big bolt disc on an A-body pretty easy. Good luck.

Your fuel is boiling due to the lower boiling temp of the ethanol. If your using a manual fuel pump. You need to put a return filter between the pump and the carburetor as in the first picture. If your using an electric pump install a regulator in the return after the carb as in second picture...