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Yes it has some baffling to start with, but I think it needs some more. Its a great pan to start with, just needs some help in a race car probably be great in a mild street car. Sump is very small and easily runs out of oil. I built a tray angled to the sump to help the oil drain into the sump.

The cheapest place I found is Summit there half as much as I paid from Mopar.

I think all, or most of the Dakota pans were 360 pans, I even cut my 340 rear main caps down to the size of a 360.

No, never put one on a F body. Maybe the same? On Duster I had to bend center link. Had to instal baffles in pan.

It's not hard, just a close fit. It's a a much better pan.

No too much stuff in the way.

I just bent the center link bar on the ends. My engine is moved back about an inch which helps. I'll send you a picture maybe hard to see. Fits on a Challenger with no problem.

I built a tray that catches the drain back oil and angles back to the sump. Seams to work well.

The stock pan has plenty of problems. The biggest problem I had with Dakota pan was that on shutdown the oil would move forward and empty the oilsump and loose oil pressure. You somehow have to keep the oil in the rear of the pan when your on the brakes.

I didn't even notice the cap locks was on. Sorry for my mistake.

YES, I HAVE BEEN USING ONE FOR YEARS, ON OUR DYNO IT IS GOOD FOR 3 HP. BE CAREFUL ON SHUTDOWN, HAD TO INSTALL BAFFELS