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I have no idea. I bought the motor assembled. I was told it had a stock 318 cam in it but I never verified that. The scamp ran pretty good before I sold it. The guy that bought it said he felt no bog.

I sold the scamp a couple years ago now. I had about 90% of the bog gone before I sold it. Im don't remember any one big thing being wrong with it. If I remember right I cleaned the booster assemblies, that helped some. And I wasn't getting full throttle either. I had to drill the throttle...

Initial timing is set at *14 or *15. Mechanical is at *34. It's been set since I got it running.

What do you mean by to late? Not enough timing at higher rpm?

It was still bogging down even when shifting it manually at higher rpm. It's pretty good now but still a little hesitation when you stop it. Maybe a half second instead of just falling on it face for 2 seconds

I know the gears are not ideal but its what I have for the summer. I'll definitely play more with it when I get some time. We bought a four unit rental last week so time is a little short these days lol.

I finally got some time to clean my carb. I cleaned everything that looked like it had a hole through it. The counter weight looks untouched. It still has a hesitation but not the huge bog like it did. Definitely need to get the kickdown adjusted better. Doesn't shift down soon enough. At least...

Here are a couple of pictures of the engine bay. Nothing special lol. Usually has an air cleaner on it. I went tonight to drive it some more and when I turned the key on it started leaking gas down the bored of the carb. Apparently I have a float stuck. Maybe I'm on to something here. I'll be...

Installation Instruction & Technical Resources - Edelbrock, LLC. Download the carb manual one. That's what I have been using. What pictures would help? I can take some tomorrow.

Hmmm. I'll start from square one then. I'll pull the carb back off and clean all the passages out and recheck the float levels again. Hopefully its just some crud stuck in a tube or air bleed somewhere.

Yeah stock stall. Seems to be better if I run it in first or second at about 3000 rpm and then go wide open throttle

25.8" tall tire and stock 2.76 gears for now. I have and 8.8 rear with 3.73 gears that will be going in at some point.

What do I need to tune? I have not messed with carburetor much. I've been tuning per the owners manual and what I have seen online. Anything under the secondaries opening it runs like a dream. Time for a 1050 dominator lol.

To small of a carb then?

No the air door is there still. Does the primary side come into play with this? Because if I disconnect the secondary side it runs great.

Vacuum at idle is 22" it's around 25" at cruise. Vacuum reading is at the brake booster. And the vacuum advance is pulled off of the manifold vacuum port. Is there an accelerator pump for the secondary side? I thought there was a booster that helped get it going back there until there was...

I can clean it out. Can't hurt. So far the only thing I have changed on the carb is the idle mixture screws. I did that after I set my timing. I have that set at *15. Total of *34 with the mechanical. Vacuum brings it up to *53. I changed the secondary jets last night but it didn't get any better.

Its a stock 360 magnum. Bored .040 over to clean up the walls and has the 318 magnum cam in it.

I have the orange in it now. There was silver before. At wot I have 4# of vacuum. I even tried the blue springs to see it it would help. Do the metering rods have anything to do with the secondary circuit?

Rpmago I tried that also. And I put in the lower hole also. Didn't make a difference either way.

I bought the carb used. But its supposedly new and I have checked the float levels twice. They are spot on. Just tweaked the hanging measurement a hair. The accelerator pump works good. Strong squirt when you move the throttle. I unhooked the secondaries last night to see if the primaries worked...

So I found out earlier this week that I only had 3/4 throttle with the pedal to the floor. I bought the bracket to fix that and now have wot. But now my 360 bogs when you floor it. Can't seem to figure it out. The motor is stock with edelbrock air gap intake and a skip white hei distributor...

I ended up using the magnum oil pan gasket. I just put some silicone where the notches are on the front of the oil pan. No leaks so far.

Just an update. I plugged the one hole in the intake under the a/c pump and drilled and tapped one of the other ones. Worked out good. I had to grind part of my bracket down to clear the plug though. I am running an upper radiator hose that is for 98 Dakota. Worked great. I forget what the...

What are you guys running for a mechanical cooling fan with your magnum? I have the stock 98 ram fan but it is hitting the lower radiator hose.

There's no putting a 90* fitting on it. There is maybe a 1/2" of clearance under the a/c compressor. Looks like I'll be drilling and tapping the intake then.

I am putting a 360 magnum into my 72 scamp. I am running all of the serpentine accessories on this motor. Where are you guys running the heater hose that is under the a/c pump? The port that is that on the edelbrock air gap intake needs to be plugged because there is no clearance. Where do I...

I'm using the magnum timing chain cover along with the serpentine belt set up. Sounds like just using a little extra silicone will get the job done. I'l give it a try and see what happens then.

I have a 360 magnum I am putting in my 72 scamp. I have searched about oil pan gaskets and it seems half the people use the one piece gasket with silicone in the corners. The other half trim the gasket off by the timing chain cover and use the la seal. I would rather use the one piece gasket it...