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68 Fury four door, 5.2 magnum, 727, obd1 injection, 2.76 gears, it would consistently get 16 to 18 in mixed driving, 21 on a trip. I took the 2.76s out and replaced them with 2.94s and my best is around 20. The 2.76s are now in my dart, because a guy I know told me to :)

I don't have any pics of it off hand, but my cousin and I put a magnum in his 46 Ford pickup, no ac, no power steering. We used an alt mount from an ac truck, and made a simple idler that bolted to that bracket with a grooved universal pulley to replace the ps. I'll dig and see if I have a pic.

That's pretty cool, I didn't know that much about that era engine. I'm wondering if putting a matched set of 16 lifters in would help the oiling trouble you're having. Differently sized oil holes maybe? If it gushes oil in one place, it may not build pressure in others. I'm kind of grasping...

I was thinking the la roller engines still oiled the rockers through the rocker shaft, I thought that when changing to mag heads that the original lifters didn't have the oil supply hole for the pushrods. The aftermarket may have combined the two part numbers.

Quick question, are you buying lifters for a 92 up engine, or your 89? I think they are different, you'll need 92 up lifters for the swap to get it to oil right. Also this may affect pushrod length. Just a couple things to check before pulling it down too deep.

I used the cheap summit pan for an LA 360, worked great, I think it was under $75. For a stock 5.2, original capacity was plenty for me. Like stated before, use the LA gasket as well.

You should be able to ground the nss pin like dionr said, it goes to the clutch switch on a manual. I'm curious why it wouldn't start with the auto PCM. Both of my magnum swaps I ran on auto pcms until I found deals on manual ones. I had a few trans codes, but they always ran and started fine.

I used the same flanges on my dart with hemi manifolds, and I'm using the flat flanges. After about 500 miles, one started to leak. I loosened it and retightened it, went away for a while, but it's still barely leaking. I'm probably going to rebuild my exhaust soon anyway, so I'm too...

They're rehooped, bought at a swap meet. They do exist in the wild though, just kind of rare, came from late 70's ram chargers and power wagons.

The centers on my 15x8s are like the older wheel centers, I'm probably being picky, but if I'm painting wheels I want them to match!

The ones in my car are like your van wheel in the trunk, they have "humps" on the centers where they meet the rim.

They're actually the 15's off of my dart, they're 15x6 front, 15x7 rears from an 80's diplomat. The centers look different and the offset is a little wrong, but they have good tires on them and I wanted to drive it a little before the snow flies. I have 15x8s with 275 60's and need some...

That's for sure! Especially since I threw steelies and dog dishes on it the other weekend (my other tires were shot, lol), looks a little more like a police car!

Looks great!

I like what you're doing with it, as a fellow goofball I like those small details that make people scratch their heads!

Now that's my kind of truck, I'm drooling!

That's a killer truck! I learned to drive a manual in my grandpa's '63, I'd love to get a sweptline some day. The magnum swaps are the best for cruisers, I love my old c body fury with the efi magnum!

I used the speed sensor from an 89 ram, it fits right in the trans like the old cable drive, and gives the right signal to the PCM. The best part is the cable passes through it so the stock gauge cluster works too, best of both worlds!

It depends, if you use a 46 rh the speedo gear is the same as the 727 904 setup. If you use a 46 re, then you're right, the speedo is an issue. You'll either have to use an electric speedo, or a GPS speedo. I'm sure there is a way to convert that signal to a mechanical original speedo, I've...

Great thread! In my fury I started with an external pump and corvette regulator, worked great for about 3k miles, but I kept it over 1/2 tank. Then I took it on a 2 1/2 hour trip on a 104* day and it failed. I used the Chrysler hemi swap pump, and I carried a spare (walbro I think) in the...

Yep, sorry, I need to proofread my posts:)

It's called distributor sync with the drb. Or with the engine at tsc and the ign on, backprobe the cam sensor wires with a meter. It will either read 0 or 5 volts when you rotate the distributor. Find the spot where the meter wants to flick back and forth between 0 and 5 and tighten it...

Good deal! You're going to love driving it, my fury is such a fun car!

I think that you have hooked up everything correctly as far as I can tell, I looked at a schematic and it looks fine. The only wiring thing I would check is how/when pin 9 is getting power. The original ignition switches have 2 ign positions, and they are separate terminals. In start, the...

When I first did my manual trans magnum swap in my Dakota, I had an auto PCM in it, it ran fine but threw auto trans codes, so I don't think that is your problem, but not sure. Also double check the PCM pinout and make sure there isn't a 12v ign source missing. It almost sounds like an old...

I'm pretty sure the magnums that year should have 45-52psi in the rail before startup, 12-14 I'm surprised it's starting at all. Try getting a can of carb cleaner and keep it running on that, it will at least narrow down between fuel and spark. Just to make sure, your rail shouldn't have a...

Sorry, can't help you there, my magnum swap is in a C body so I have about a mile in between them, lol!

I think it's 05-10 grand Cherokees that use them, not sure though.

That would be the best bet, we couldn't do that because of the tight engine bay in his truck. Definitely do that on your car if you can I would say.

On my cousin's magnum swapped 46 ford we bypassed the p/s as well, we made a small bracket to hold an idler pulley so it would wrap the water pump as you said.