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He might have been referring to the cone-type sure grip, which are not easily rebuildable compared to the clutch-type. The cone sure grip requires machining to be rebuilt, where you can just throw new clutches into the other.

I can see why the third member was free...I definitely would not be driving on that. I would think a used cone sure grip would drop right in and be on the cheaper side of doing things. From what I can see, it looks like the shaft that the spider gears ride on started chewing its way through the...

There is an O-ring on the lower part of the dipstick tube, which seals it to the transmission case. You can remove the tube, replace the O-ring, and reinstall it, which will probably solve your leakage issue. Make sure you spray off the area where the tube mates to the transmission with some...

Thanks!

Well, I dug up the angle finder and it looks like my eyeball needs to be calibrated. The difference between the front and rear welded yokes on the shaft are, at most, a half degree different. I'll be looking elsewhere for the source of the vibrations. Thank you to everyone for answering my...

Unfortunately, the number has been disconnected. Do you or does someone else have any other contact numbers or should I get a hold of A&A or Mancini? I'm pretty sure the both sell their shafts. Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

Thank you very much. I'll try getting a hold of him sometime today. Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

It's my understanding that Victory Driveline is located somewhere in Iowa. Does anyone have contact information or know where they are in the state? They seem to have a pretty good reputation and I'd be interested in seeing what they'd charge me for a new driveshaft.

If I had more confidence in the welder I have access to and my abilities, I would give that a shot. The cheap way for me that I would be comfortable with is to have a driveshaft shop do the cut, reposition, and reweld. I'll have to see if I can round up an angle finder again and check how...

Not sure if they built this particular shaft, it's one that my dad had in his shop that had been collecting dust for quite some time. I have no idea how old it is or who built it, but it does look like a shortened shaft. I have checked the angles of the trans output and pinion. I've tried...

Yeah, I'm talking about the yokes welded to the shaft. I'm starting to get the impression that I should be looking for a different driveline shop.

I have a quick question about yoke phasing, but first some background... I've been chasing an oscillating vibration on my car since I assembled it that starts in gently at around 2500 in high gear and gets progressively more intense the higher up in RPMs I go. I only feel it when I'm cruising...

Is this a strip car? What kind of ET/mph/HP are you putting down and what does it weigh? A 1350 is a pretty big U joint already. I'm not familiar with the 1790 and can't seem to find any info on it. I doubt I'll be of much help here as I'm still using the stock driveshaft on mine with 7260...

It's a little hard to see, but this is a custom mount that my dad threw together for putting a trans on an engine stand. It's basically a tube that's notched for a piece of thick flat steel that's welded in to mount the arms and two arms with two 90 degree bends to lift the trans up higher so...

Try Summit or Mancini Racing for a Lokar kickdown setup. A lot of people seem to like them over the stock setups.

I've heard that you can use lipstick too and it's supposed to work pretty good. See here: http://rienk.com/rienk.net/en/mopar-318f.html

Does it leak when running at all? Are you sure it's coming from inside the bellhousing? If not, I'm betting that it's the o-ring for the dipstick tube, which is a cheap, easy fix. Just make sure you clean around the tube real well and lubricate the o-ring before reinstalling the tube.

Not sure if this would work or not, but have you considered using a lock-up transmission? You should still be able to get a good converter for it and I would think that the lock-up would make the stall speed of the converter a non-issue on the highway.

If it's unmodified, the neutral safety/reverse light switch is in the transmission. As long as it works now, it should work with the aftermarket shifter as well.

How high are you going to spin it? If it was mine and it was going above 6500, I'd get an SFI plate, but that's me...I don't like the idea of my drivetrain grenading.

I kicked this idea around before I got my 8 3/4, mostly because limited slip is fairly easy to find for these and, at least at first glance, it looks like it'll fit...I believe the spring perches are on the top side of the axle anyway, so they'll need to be cut off and moved to the bottom. I'm...

That is exactly it, the rods are connected to the pivot on the bellhousing backwards. Unhook the rods at the pivot, swing the pivot 180 degrees and hook them back up. It'd be easier to explain with pictures...I'll see if I can dig some up.